Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1991
Page Views: 8,628 total · 74/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


134 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route is full value! A must do if you are in this area! Start by climbing up the arete, wandering from the left to right side. Pull through a small overhang and head up toward the larger overhang on the right side of the arete. When you reach the top overhang, pass it on the left face, then hand traverse back right to the peak. Heel hook and crank up onto the slabby right face using some shallow horizontals and make a reachy clip on the arete (crux). Climb up the slab for a few moves and traverse back left to the overhanging left face. From here, it's straight up on jugs to the anchors. 55M+ rope is needed to touch down. Great climb!!!

Location

This route climbs the obvious arete that you will first see as you approach the 7-11 wall from the Butcher's Branch. Just to the right of Tony the Tiger.

Protection

10 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Mississippi James
Brighton by way of dirty south
 
Mississippi James   Brighton by way of dirty south
 
AIRY! The hand traverse (campus) at the roof section leads to a funky, ASS puckering mantle around the corner from your last bolt. You feel super exposed and just wish for a hold but you don't get much except for a New River slab slap in the face. Absolutely amazing line that will leave you wanting more! Oct 28, 2015
Will Wright
Mesa, AZ
  5.11+
Will Wright   Mesa, AZ
  5.11+
Heady (for a well-protected sport pitch) and varied climbing on bullet rock. One of the best sport routes in the country. Mar 2, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Fantastically airy, burly through the crux, a bit heady at the juggy finish. A must do. Fun to follow, but I think the real value comes from leading this. May 31, 2016