Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 2,065 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 25, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


92 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Scramble to the top of the tall boulder, step across the airy step without pro to clip your first bolt, make some hard moves for the grade.
Continue up and enjoy the breeze and exposure up there.

Location

Right most route on the 1st section of the wall.

Protection

None until you reach the top of the boulder (30ft).
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Eli .
GMC3500
  5.10d PG13
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.10d PG13
100% Terrifying first move. Hard from then on out. Stick clip recommended. Jan 3, 2015
Jacob Sustrich
  5.10c
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.10c
Also recommending a stick clip. Kinda stupid not to use one here. There's usually a big stick or two left at the top of the boulder for this specific purpose.

Aside from that, great route. I wouldn't say it's any harder than 10c. All the moves are super fun and varied. Crux for me was moving past the fifth bolt, but even than not bad. Great rests all the way. Kinda runout from 5th to 6th bolt but it's easy climb. Could be a dirty fall if you did though cause there's a tree right behind it. Aug 10, 2015
Raiden
Cincinnati, OH
  5.10c
Raiden   Cincinnati, OH  
  5.10c
At 5'9.5" I could juuuuust clip the first bolt from the boulder by sticking my left foot into a divot on the face. Great view from the top. Aug 27, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
gosh, this would not be my "first steps". Very thoughtful and interesting moves. This shorty had no trouble getting on to the face, but, I did have trouble in the corner. A very committing move up to the very positive holds. It doesn't let up, there is more puzzling as you ascend. May 31, 2016
Joe Whittlesey
Durham, NC
 
Joe Whittlesey   Durham, NC
 
First steps, first route at the New. had a great time, little scary Nov 8, 2016
zachj F
 
zachj F  
 
Do this route!! Don't let others comments scare you away from this really fun climb. You should climb the front side of the big detached boulder (easy V0 scramble up) and make an easy stick climb before engaging. After that, it is a very fun, well exposed route with amazing views from the top! I think 10c is a fair rating; certainly not harder than 10d. Oct 16, 2017