Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.  Be aware that if you are bringing a dog to the crag within the New River Gorge, it's on National Park Service land, and thus you'll need to keep dogs a leash.

Location

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

904 Total Climbs

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Location: New River Gorge Proper Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 222
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 119
Super Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 144
Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Springboard
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 107
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 96
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 246
Decameron, The
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 110
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 181
Kinesthetica
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 230
Legacy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 147
Aesthetica
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 134
Scenic Adult
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 75
Disturbance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 79
Freaky Stylee
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 100
Psycho Wrangler
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 222
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Super Crack Beauty Mountain > 7) Thunder Buttress
 119
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Black and Tan Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 144
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Springboard Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Burning Calves Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress
 107
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 96
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Decameron, The Bubba City > Sandstonia
 246
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 110
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Kinesthetica Bubba City > Sandstonia
 181
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Legacy Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
 230
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Aesthetica Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 147
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Scenic Adult Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall
 134
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Disturbance Beauty Mountain > 4) Genocide Cave
 75
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Freaky Stylee Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 79
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Psycho Wrangler Cotton Top
 100
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New River Gorge Proper »

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TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila?? Aug 13, 2011
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles.... Aug 17, 2011
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail? Apr 19, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price. Apr 19, 2014
Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV but curren…
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV but curren…
This place sucks go bouldering at LRC instead. Or better yet, go to Nationals in SLC and have yourself a real climbing trip. Feb 7, 2018