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Areas in New River Gorge Proper

Ambassador Buttress 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Beauty Mountain 37 / 36 / 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 80
Bridge Area 59 / 13 / 12 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 76
Bubba City 31 / 114 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 145
Cotton Top 2 / 17 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Domino Point 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Endless Wall 96 / 126 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 225
Fern Buttress 45 / 26 / 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 74
Hawk's Nest Dam 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Interp Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Junkyard Area 41 / 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 44
Kaymoor 17 / 69 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 86
Keeney's Buttress 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Minden Boulders 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Nuttall 9 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Sunshine Crag 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 1,779 ft
GPS: 38.078, -81.063 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 616,791 total, 4,978/month
Shared By: Ladd on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath
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Description

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, South Nuttal, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.
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Location

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

812 Total Climbs

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Location: New River Gorge Proper Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flight of the Gumby
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rico Suave
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decameron, The
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kinesthetica
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Legacy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sancho Belige
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aesthetica
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scenic Adult
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost Souls
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fantasy Endless Wall > Fantasy Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
New Yosemite Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Flight of the Gumby Kaymoor > Butcher's Branch 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Super Crack Beauty Mtn > Thunder Buttress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Rico Suave Kaymoor > Rico Suave Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black and Tan Endless Wall > Fantasy Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Burning Calves Beauty Mtn > Burning Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Decameron, The Bubba City > Sandstonia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Kinesthetica Bubba City > Sandstonia 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Legacy Endless Wall > Snake Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sancho Belige Kaymoor > Butcher's Branch 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Aesthetica Endless Wall > Fantasy Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Scenic Adult Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lost Souls Kaymoor > Butcher's Branch 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New River Gorge Proper »

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Photos

Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price. Apr 19, 2014
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail? Apr 19, 2014
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles.... Aug 17, 2011
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila?? Aug 13, 2011

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