New River Gorge Proper Climbing
Areas in New River Gorge Proper
Ambassador Buttress
11 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
11
Beauty Mountain
41 /
42 /
5 /
46 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
131
Bridge Area
70 /
13 /
13 /
8 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
91
Bubba City
35 /
125 /
4 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
160
Cotton Hill
17 /
48 /
0 /
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
71
Domino Point
2 /
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Endless Wall
121 /
144 /
4 /
8 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
273
Fayette Station Boulders
0 /
0 /
0 /
9 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9
Fern Buttress
67 /
33 /
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
100
Fern Creek Boulders
0 /
0 /
0 /
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
6
Interp Boulders
0 /
0 /
0 /
27 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
27
Junkyard Area
50 /
1 /
11 /
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
59
Kaymoor
32 /
75 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
107
Keeney's Buttress
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Lower New River Gorge Bouldering
0 /
0 /
0 /
90 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
90
South Nuttall
14 /
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
19
Sunshine Boulders
0 /
0 /
0 /
15 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
15
Sunshine Buttress
2 /
7 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9
Elevation: | 1,778 ft |
GPS: |
38.07788, -81.06338 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 2,586,548 total · 13,865/month |
Shared By: | Ladd Raine on Oct 10, 2007 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
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This area includes all climbing spots that drain into the New River from the Beckley area to the south all the way to the Dries on the north. This is the biggest climbing region in the area, and no matter the time of year or style of climbing, you'll find something to suit your interests.
Classic Climbing Routes at New River Gorge Proper
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Two Bag Face | Fern Buttress > 3) Workmen's Buttress |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad | |
● Four Sheets to the Wind | Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | |
● Super Crack | Beauty Mountain > 7) Thunder Buttress |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | |
● Burning Calves | Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | |
● Party in My Mind | Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | |
● Fairtracer | Kaymoor > 7. Seven Eleven Wall |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | |
● Mellifluous | Endless Wall > A) Fern Point |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | |
● Legacy | Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | |
● Aesthetica | Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | |
● Scenic Adult | Kaymoor > 7. Seven Eleven Wall |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | |
● Disturbance | Beauty Mountain > [Redacted] |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● Freaky Stylee | Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● Psycho Wrangler | Cotton Hill > Cotton Top |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● New World Order | Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress |
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport | |
● Thunderstruck | Kaymoor > 5. White Wall |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport |
Weather Averages
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Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
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