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New River Gorge Proper Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in New River Gorge Proper

Ambassador Buttress 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Beauty Mountain 38 / 41 / 5 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 100

Bridge Area 59 / 13 / 12 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 77

Bubba City 33 / 117 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 150

Cotton Hill 4 / 41 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 49

Domino Point 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Endless Wall 108 / 143 / 4 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 255

Fayette Station Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Fern Buttress 48 / 31 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 78

Fern Creek Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Interp Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Junkyard Area 43 / 1 / 10 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 51

Kaymoor 22 / 74 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 96

Keeney's Buttress 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Lower New River Gorge Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 63 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 63

Needleseye 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

South Nuttall 13 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Sunshine Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Sunshine Buttress 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Elevation:	1,778 ft
GPS:	38.078, -81.063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,421,695 total · 9,161/month
Shared By:	Ladd Raine on Oct 10, 2007
Admins:	Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones History (Admin Only): Pnelson edited this area Apr 29, 2019 View all 2 Pnelson edited this area Oct 1, 2019

Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

All restaurants, lodging, and facilities are closed in the Fayetteville area. As in many rural areas, the population of Southern West Virginia is unusually vulnerable to this virus, health facilities are limited, and it is very possible that outside visitors could spread Covid-19 here. Please stay home, train, and the rock will be here when this is all passed.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG. Be aware that if you are bringing a dog to the crag within the New River Gorge, it's on National Park Service land, and thus you'll need to keep dogs a leash.

Location

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

984 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 88 ● Two Bag Face Trad Fern Buttress > 3) Workmen's Buttress
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 255 ● Four Sheets to the Wind Trad Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 145 ● Super Crack Trad Beauty Mountain > 7) Thunder Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 109 ● Springboard Trad Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 126 ● Burning Calves Trad Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 112 ● Party in My Mind Trad Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 132 ● Rapscallion's Blues Trad Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 277 ● Legacy Sport Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 173 ● Aesthetica Sport Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 156 ● Scenic Adult Sport Kaymoor > 7. Seven Eleven Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 92 ● Disturbance Sport Beauty Mountain > 4) Genocide Cave
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 99 ● Freaky Stylee Sport Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 129 ● Psycho Wrangler Sport Cotton Hill > Cotton Top
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 90 ● Bullet the New Sky Sport Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 92 ● Thunderstruck Sport Kaymoor > 5. White Wall