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Areas in New River Gorge Proper

Ambassador Buttress 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Beauty Mountain 37 / 37 / 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 87
Bridge Area 59 / 13 / 12 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 76
Bubba City 31 / 116 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 147
Cotton Top 2 / 18 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Domino Point 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Endless Wall 101 / 129 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 233
Fayette Station Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Fern Buttress 46 / 27 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 72
Fern Creek Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hawk's Nest Dam 0 / 0 / 0 / 51 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 51
Interp Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Junkyard Area 42 / 1 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 46
Kaymoor 21 / 70 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 91
Keeney's Buttress 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Minden Boulders 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Nuttall 11 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Sunshine Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Sunshine Buttress 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 1,779 ft
GPS: 38.078, -81.063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 804,274 total · 6,028/month
Shared By: Ladd on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.  Be aware that if you are bringing a dog to the crag within the New River Gorge, it's on National Park Service land, and thus you'll need to keep dogs a leash.

Location

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

888 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 217
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 118
Super Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 139
Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 87
Springboard
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 107
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 90
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 235
Decameron, The
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 106
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 177
Kinesthetica
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 217
Legacy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 144
Aesthetica
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 129
Scenic Adult
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 74
Disturbance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 98
Psycho Wrangler
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fantasy Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 217
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Super Crack Beauty Mtn > 7) Thunder Buttress
 118
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Black and Tan Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 139
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Springboard Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
 87
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Burning Calves Beauty Mtn > 5) Burning Buttress
 107
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 90
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Decameron, The Bubba City > Sandstonia
 235
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 106
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Kinesthetica Bubba City > Sandstonia
 177
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Legacy Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
 217
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Aesthetica Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 144
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Scenic Adult Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall
 129
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Disturbance Beauty Mtn > 4) Genocide Cave
 74
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Psycho Wrangler Cotton Top
 98
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New River Gorge Proper »

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Photos

TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila?? Aug 13, 2011
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles.... Aug 17, 2011
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail? Apr 19, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price. Apr 19, 2014
Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV but curren…
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV but curren…
This place sucks go bouldering at LRC instead. Or better yet, go to Nationals in SLC and have yourself a real climbing trip. Feb 7, 2018

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