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All Locations > West Virginia > The New River Gorge

New River Gorge Proper Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in New River Gorge Proper

Ambassador Buttress 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Beauty Mountain 37 / 37 / 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 87
Bridge Area 59 / 13 / 12 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 76
Bubba City 31 / 116 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 147
Cotton Top 2 / 18 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Domino Point 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Endless Wall 101 / 129 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 233
Fayette Station Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Fern Buttress 46 / 27 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 72
Fern Creek Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hawk's Nest Dam 0 / 0 / 0 / 51 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 51
Interp Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Junkyard Area 42 / 1 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 46
Kaymoor 21 / 70 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 91
Keeney's Buttress 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Minden Boulders 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Nuttall 11 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Sunshine Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Sunshine Buttress 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 1,779 ft
GPS: 38.078, -81.063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 804,274 total · 6,028/month
Shared By: Ladd on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.  Be aware that if you are bringing a dog to the crag within the New River Gorge, it's on National Park Service land, and thus you'll need to keep dogs a leash.

Location

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

888 Total Climbs

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Location: New River Gorge Proper Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
● Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 217
● Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 118
● Super Crack
Trad
Beauty Mtn > 7) Thunder Buttress
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 139
● Black and Tan
Trad
Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 87
● Springboard
Trad
Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 107
● Burning Calves
Trad
Beauty Mtn > 5) Burning Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 90
● Party in My Mind
Trad
Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 235
● Decameron, The
Sport
Bubba City > Sandstonia
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 106
● Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 177
● Kinesthetica
Sport
Bubba City > Sandstonia
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 217
● Legacy
Sport
Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 144
● Aesthetica
Sport
Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 129
● Scenic Adult
Sport
Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 74
● Disturbance
Sport
Beauty Mtn > 4) Genocide Cave
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 98
● Psycho Wrangler
Sport
Cotton Top
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Fantasy Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 217
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Super Crack Beauty Mtn > 7) Thunder Buttress
 118
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Black and Tan Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 139
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Springboard Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
 87
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Burning Calves Beauty Mtn > 5) Burning Buttress
 107
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Party in My Mind Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 90
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Decameron, The Bubba City > Sandstonia
 235
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 106
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Kinesthetica Bubba City > Sandstonia
 177
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Legacy Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
 217
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Aesthetica Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 144
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Scenic Adult Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall
 129
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Disturbance Beauty Mtn > 4) Genocide Cave
 74
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Psycho Wrangler Cotton Top
 98
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New River Gorge Proper »

Weather Averages

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Photos

Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 2001.
Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October,…
 1
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
 0

5 Comments

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TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila?? Aug 13, 2011
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles.... Aug 17, 2011
katiepl87
katiepl87  
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail? Apr 19, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price. Apr 19, 2014
Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV but curren…
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV but curren…
This place sucks go bouldering at LRC instead. Or better yet, go to Nationals in SLC and have yourself a real climbing trip. Feb 7, 2018

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