Elevation: 1,779 ft
GPS: 38.078, -81.063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 880,445 total · 6,407/month
Shared By: Ladd on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.  Be aware that if you are bringing a dog to the crag within the New River Gorge, it's on National Park Service land, and thus you'll need to keep dogs a leash.

Location

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

904 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: New River Gorge Proper Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 222
● Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 119
● Super Crack
Trad
Beauty Mountain > 7) Thunder Buttress
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 144
● Black and Tan
Trad
Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
● Springboard
Trad
Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 107
● Burning Calves
Trad
Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 96
● Party in My Mind
Trad
Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 246
● Decameron, The
Sport
Bubba City > Sandstonia
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 110
● Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 181
● Kinesthetica
Sport
Bubba City > Sandstonia
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 230
● Legacy
Sport
Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 147
● Aesthetica
Sport
Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 134
● Scenic Adult
Sport
Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 75
● Disturbance
Sport
Beauty Mountain > 4) Genocide Cave
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 79
● Freaky Stylee
Sport
Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 100
● Psycho Wrangler
Sport
Cotton Top
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 222
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Super Crack Beauty Mountain > 7) Thunder Buttress
 119
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Black and Tan Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 144
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Springboard Fern Buttress > 7) Orchard Wall
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Burning Calves Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress
 107
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Party in My Mind Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 96
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Decameron, The Bubba City > Sandstonia
 246
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 110
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Kinesthetica Bubba City > Sandstonia
 181
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Legacy Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
 230
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Aesthetica Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 147
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Scenic Adult Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall
 134
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Disturbance Beauty Mountain > 4) Genocide Cave
 75
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Freaky Stylee Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 79
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Psycho Wrangler Cotton Top
 100
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New River Gorge Proper »

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Photos

Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 2001.
Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October,…
 1
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
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5 Comments

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TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila?? Aug 13, 2011
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles.... Aug 17, 2011
katiepl87
katiepl87  
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail? Apr 19, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price. Apr 19, 2014
Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV but curren…
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV but curren…
This place sucks go bouldering at LRC instead. Or better yet, go to Nationals in SLC and have yourself a real climbing trip. Feb 7, 2018