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Routes in Seven Eleven Wall

Bimbo Shrine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butcher Man, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Buzz Kill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fairtracer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fearless Symmetry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
First Steps S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fuel Injector S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mr. Hollywood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scenic Adult S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slash and Burn S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Squirrelly Adventure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tit Speed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tony the Tiger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Eric Anderson
Page Views: 467 total · 8/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Aug 13, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route is broken into 3 sections separated by good rests. The crux is climbing from bolt 2 to 4 and features some seriously small, sharp crimps and balance-intensive slab moves on smeared feet. The middle section of the climb is a little easier, but still requires some good technique. The final section features a traverse left to a difficult traverse back right and then up to the anchors.

Buzz Kill is just right of Slash and Burn on the smooth orang and black face. Bring along some some skin salve if you plan to take several burns on the crux in a day.

Protection

10 bolts and 2-bolt anchor.

To reduce rope drag through the final difficult moves (and there will be rope drag), it would help to extend bolts 5 and 6 (far right bolts) and bolt 9 (far left bolt), though you should consider where a fall on an extended bolt 5 would leave you.

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Mark Paulson  
 
If you're standing in line for Slash, get on this line! So good. The ninth bolt should definitely get moved two feet to the right, but I took the whip and it was fine. Drag was not an issue. Neither was the tree, surprisingly. Oct 15, 2017
Strange bolting near the top on this one - the redpoint crux involves a sharp rightwards traverse, meaning that you have a possibility of clotheslining yourself on your rope.

Heads up on some of the crimps/footchips on this one as well. Adventurous! May 26, 2015

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