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First Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 2. First Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Leather Nun, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Oh, It's You Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rubber Glove Test, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Sticky Situation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	1,782 ft	543 m
GPS:	38.04588, -81.06645 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	19,007 total · 84/month
Shared By:	Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This is a great warm-weather sport crag that doesn't get as crowded as other areas at Kaymoor. Classics include World's Hardest (5.12a, which is not even the NRG's hardest 12a), Sanctified (5.12d+++), and Oh It's You Bob (5.11b).

Getting There

Take the Kaymoor Stairs trail down past the Hole, and look for a faint climber's trail heading up to the upstream cliffline to climber's right. There is now an excellent cliff-bottom trail that runs all the way from First Buttress to Butcher's Branch, making for great crag linkup days.

9 Total Climbs

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Location:	2. First Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 94 ● Oh, It's You Bob Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 84 ● Magnatude Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 58 ● The World's Hardest Five Twelve Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 37 ● Sticky Situation Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 20 ● The Haulage Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 16 ● Sanctified Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 9 ● The Tantrum Sport