Elevation: 1,110 ft
GPS: 38.116, -81.141 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 58,446 total · 444/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on May 10, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This is one of the farthest-downstream crags of the NRG; several miles below Bubba City, and below Hawk's Nest Dam on the New. It's home to a number of good sport routes; Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a, is not to be missed. If this area has seen rain recently, especially a heavy rain, expect to have some runoff, particularly the vertical wall right of Psycho Wrangler.  Many of the routes stay wet for a couple days on this wall after a heavy rain. Contrary to semantic nitpicking by some people with too much time on their hands, this area is part of the NRG Proper despite being cut off from the Greater Endless Wall cliffband.  

Getting There

From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge.

52 Total Climbs

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Location: Cotton Hill Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cotton Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 13
We Got Problems
Boulder
V5 6C
 16
Johnny Chimpo
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Cotton Gin and Tonic
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Management Wore Masks
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 186
Cottonmouth
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Dying for a Living
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 42
Essence
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Sequence of Events
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 125
Cottonhead
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Government Overreach
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 132
Q-tip
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 47
End of Innocence
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Shack Rouster
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 143
Psycho Wrangler
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Intergalactic Orcas
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
We Got Problems Cotton Top
 13
V2 5+ Boulder
Johnny Chimpo Cotton Top
 16
V5 6C Boulder
Cotton Gin and Tonic Cotton Top
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Management Wore Masks Cotton Club
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cottonmouth Cotton Top
 186
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dying for a Living Cotton Club
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Essence Cotton Club
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sequence of Events Cotton Club
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cottonhead Cotton Top
 125
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Government Overreach Cotton Club
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Q-tip Cotton Top
 132
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
End of Innocence Cotton Top
 47
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shack Rouster Cotton Club
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Psycho Wrangler Cotton Top
 143
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Intergalactic Orcas Cotton Top
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cotton Hill »

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