Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This area is home to multiple classic routes at many different ability levels. Most routes are short, from 50 to about 65 feet tall. Plan accordingly because this area, due to its minimal approach, close proximity to the AAC campground and top access trail, can get crowded very easily. Please share resources here. With only two routes that are bolted, and both of those requiring some gear to avoid a PG rating, this is definitely a place you'll want to bring a rack if you're leading. If you are strictly top roping here, please be polite and share with people that want to lead. There is no such thing as a rope hanging on a route as a reservation. This area is also often guided and often has children present as a result. Act accordingly.

Getting There

From Highway 19 turn onto Ames Heights Rd. Take a left onto rt 60/96. This is the same road that you'll find the AAC campground. Just after the campground, there is small pull off on the left- between two trees. Further down, there is a turnaround spot at the trailhead with limited parking as well. Don't block anyone in there. Allow enough room for someone to drive in and turn around because after this point, the road is one way. Do not drive down the road any further than this turnaround point. You'll be going the wrong way on a one way road. At the trailhead you have two options. The path to the right has top access, the path to the left is a big set of stairs that takes you to the base of the crag.

31 Total Climbs

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Location: Junkyard Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Cave Routes 1 and 2
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 214
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 115
Jumping Jack Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Mr. Ed
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 311
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
The Contortionist
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 222
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 155
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 131
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 110
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 43
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 45
Reachers of Habit
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Junk Yard Dog
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Routes 1 and 2
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
New River Gunks
 214
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumping Jack Flash
 115
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mr. Ed
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
New Yosemite
 311
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
V-Slot
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind
 222
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer
 155
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus
 131
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues
 110
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment
 40
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Stuck In Another Dimension
 43
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit
 45
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Junk Yard Dog
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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