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Junkyard Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Junkyard Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Andropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Are You Not Entertained? T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Bo Knows T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Contortionist, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Sap T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Enteruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Equine Proctologist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jumpin' Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Junk Yard Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	New River Punks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	No Ragrets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	On Your Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Paranoid Schizophrenia T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Yew Nosemite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,557 ft	475 m
GPS:	38.08299, -81.08043 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	127,278 total · 568/month
Shared By:	Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This area is home to multiple classic routes at many different ability levels. Most routes are short, from 50 to about 65 feet tall. Plan accordingly because this area, due to its minimal approach, close proximity to the AAC campground and top access trail, can get crowded very easily. Please share resources here. With only two routes that are bolted, and both of those requiring some gear to avoid a PG rating, this is definitely a place you'll want to bring a rack if you're leading. If you are strictly top roping here, please be polite and share with people that want to lead. There is no such thing as a rope hanging on a route as a reservation. This area is also often guided and often has children present as a result. Act accordingly.

Getting There

From Highway 19 turn onto Ames Heights Rd. Take a left onto rt 60/96. This is the same road that you'll find the AAC campground. Just after the campground, there is small pull off on the left- between two trees. Further down, there is a turnaround spot at the trailhead with limited parking as well. Don't block anyone in there. Allow enough room for someone to drive in and turn around because after this point, the road is one way. Do not drive down the road any further than this turnaround point. You'll be going the wrong way on a one way road. At the trailhead you have two options. The path to the right has top access, the path to the left is a big set of stairs that takes you to the base of the crag.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 54 ● Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 353 ● New River Gunks Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 208 ● Jumpin' Jack Flash Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 554 ● New Yosemite Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 67 ● The Contortionist Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 56 ● V-Slot Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 387 ● Four Sheets to the Wind Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 263 ● The Entertainer Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 205 ● Team Jesus Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 191 ● Rapscallion's Blues Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 65 ● Realignment Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 79 ● Stuck In Another Dimension Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 81 ● Reachers of Habit Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 23 ● Junk Yard Dog Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Yew Nosemite Trad