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Routes in Junkyard Wall

Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Antropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Contortionist, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enteruptus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jumping Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junk Yard Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yew Nosemite T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This area is home to multiple classic routes at many different ability levels. Most routes are short, from 50 to about 65 feet tall. Plan accordingly because this area, due to its minimal approach, close proximity to the AAC campground and top access trail, can get crowded very easily. Please share resources here. With only two routes that are bolted, and both of those requiring some gear to avoid a PG rating, this is definitely a place you'll want to bring a rack if you're leading. If you are strictly top roping here, please be polite and share with people that want to lead. There is no such thing as a rope hanging on a route as a reservation. This area is also often guided and often has children present as a result. Act accordingly.

Getting There

From Highway 19 turn onto Ames Heights Rd. Take a left onto rt 60/96. This is the same road that you'll find the AAC campground. Just after the campground, there is small pull off on the left- between two trees. Further down, there is a turnaround spot at the trailhead with limited parking as well. Don't block anyone in there. Allow enough room for someone to drive in and turn around because after this point, the road is one way. Do not drive down the road any further than this turnaround point. You'll be going the wrong way on a one way road. At the trailhead you have two options. The path to the right has top access, the path to the left is a big set of stairs that takes you to the base of the crag.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Cave Routes 1 and 2
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 207
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 113
Jumping Jack Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Mr. Ed
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 301
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
The Contortionist
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 217
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 154
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 126
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 106
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Junk Yard Dog
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 44
Reachers of Habit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Routes 1 and 2
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
New River Gunks
 207
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumping Jack Flash
 113
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mr. Ed
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
New Yosemite
 301
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
V-Slot
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind
 217
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer
 154
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus
 126
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues
 106
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment
 40
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Junk Yard Dog
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Stuck In Another Dimension
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit
 44
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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Spencer C
Arlington
Spencer C   Arlington
If anyone found a random #3 BD near here (Four Sheets or New River Gunks), I misplaced mine 8/31/18.. good karma for a return! Thanks Sep 3, 2018 · Lost & Found

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