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Routes in Junkyard Wall

Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Antropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Contortionist, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enteruptus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jumping Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junk Yard Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yew Nosemite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Erskine, Rick Skidmore (1979)
Page Views: 2,140 total, 17/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Though often overlooked (I did for years), this route is enjoyable and fun! A nice 5.9 trad lead. Climb, chimney, and jam varying-width crack through a couple slots to the top. (Arm-bars may be used, but are not mandatory.) Good position(s), nice variety, occasional jugs.

Oh yeah, be sure to "Ride the Rock Horse" near the top!

Location

From Junkyard Wall proper, walk left past New River Gunks, Team Jesus, The Entertainer. Follow trail around and past two corners. Looking right, spot Stuck in Another Dimension (5.11), an intimidating crack with roof on the right-side of the face . V-Slot (5.9) is the obvious crack IMMEDIATELY LEFT.

Protection

Small-Med-Large. Does not require a piece bigger than a #4 Camalot, though you can use a bigger one if you have it. Shuts up and left on the left-facing corner.

Photos

Foster Tucker
Morgantown, West Virginia
 
Foster Tucker   Morgantown, West Virginia
 
A little bit burly and a whole lot of fun! As stated in the description, big gear isn't completely necessary but a #6 and a #4 definitely helped tame the first little chimney/offwidth and a #5 was pretty helpful in the middle of the upper chimney. Apr 16, 2017
Doug Joness
logan, ut
 
Doug Joness   logan, ut
 
Sweet climb. It climbs way better than it looks. Leave your wide gear on the ground. Biggest piece I used was a #3 c4 and I probably didn't even need that. Make sure you ride the rock horse. Yeeeeeehaw! Aug 27, 2015