Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Erskine, Rick Skidmore (1979)
Page Views: 2,322 total · 17/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Though often overlooked (I did for years), this route is enjoyable and fun! A nice 5.9 trad lead. Climb, chimney, and jam varying-width crack through a couple slots to the top. (Arm-bars may be used, but are not mandatory.) Good position(s), nice variety, occasional jugs.

Oh yeah, be sure to "Ride the Rock Horse" near the top!

Location

From Junkyard Wall proper, walk left past New River Gunks, Team Jesus, The Entertainer. Follow trail around and past two corners. Looking right, spot Stuck in Another Dimension (5.11), an intimidating crack with roof on the right-side of the face . V-Slot (5.9) is the obvious crack IMMEDIATELY LEFT.

Protection

Small-Med-Large. Does not require a piece bigger than a #4 Camalot, though you can use a bigger one if you have it. Shuts up and left on the left-facing corner.

Photos

Doug Joness
logan, ut
 
Doug Joness   logan, ut
 
Sweet climb. It climbs way better than it looks. Leave your wide gear on the ground. Biggest piece I used was a #3 c4 and I probably didn't even need that. Make sure you ride the rock horse. Yeeeeeehaw! Aug 27, 2015
Foster Tucker
Morgantown, West Virginia
 
Foster Tucker   Morgantown, West Virginia  
 
A little bit burly and a whole lot of fun! As stated in the description, big gear isn't completely necessary but a #6 and a #4 definitely helped tame the first little chimney/offwidth and a #5 was pretty helpful in the middle of the upper chimney. Apr 16, 2017