Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Scott Garso and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 2,679 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Stacking hands sound like fun? How about knee jams and arm bars? Then this is the route for you.

Often Toproped.

Location

Vertical crack to right of Reachers of Habit (5.11b)

Protection

Loads of big gear, bring a big bro, or four.

If you approach this thinking there will be placements for your standard crack, you will be in X rated territory.

Photos

Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
This is a great spot to practice real off-width techniques at a modest grade/angle with an easy TR setup. The main crack is clean and nicely featured.

If you have the gear, the main OW section can be lead very safely (to the bolted anchor for Reachers of Habit) with 1-2x BD #4s, 2x BD #5s, and 1x BD #6. Also bring a few pieces circa .75-2" for the leftward traverse to the anchor. Just leap-frog your gear to get past the blocky start without burning your big cams.

Lead this one clean and you'll be ready to try the 5.10 OWs at Bridge Buttress! Sep 18, 2017