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Routes in Junkyard Wall

Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Antropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Contortionist, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enteruptus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jumping Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junk Yard Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yew Nosemite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Scott Garso and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 2,402 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Stacking hands sound like fun? How about knee jams and arm bars? Then this is the route for you.

Often Toproped.

Location

Vertical crack to right of Reachers of Habit (5.11b)

Protection

Loads of big gear, bring a big bro, or four.

If you approach this thinking there will be placements for your standard crack, you will be in X rated territory.

Photos

Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
This is a great spot to practice real off-width techniques at a modest grade/angle with an easy TR setup. The main crack is clean and nicely featured.

If you have the gear, the main OW section can be lead very safely (to the bolted anchor for Reachers of Habit) with 1-2x BD #4s, 2x BD #5s, and 1x BD #6. Also bring a few pieces circa .75-2" for the leftward traverse to the anchor. Just leap-frog your gear to get past the blocky start without burning your big cams.

Lead this one clean and you'll be ready to try the 5.10 OWs at Bridge Buttress! Sep 18, 2017