Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Horst, Evler '87
Page Views: 1,720 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Bolts protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of New River Gunks.

Unbelievably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.

Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.

Location

Just around the corner to the right of New River Gunks. Directly left of the cave entrance.

Protection

Two bolts and a bomber red alien and #7 nut below crux, run out until almost at anchors.
Anchors are hard to find on lower ledge right of New River Gunks anchors and down a little.

Photos

Just got back on this yesterday, 'ol rusty ain't there no more and the bolts have been replaced with glue ins. The PG13 probably comes from the decision-making after the second bolt to either place (good gear) from a mildly insecure position or just punch it for the mantle. If you didn't place and you
did blow the mantle it'd be a fun ride, but a decent belayer would keep you well off the dirt (So, PG). Also, you can skip the crux move off the dirt by reaching on from the block behind (makes it ~10d). Get a spot for the opening crux, you wouldn't want to blow it and fall back onto said block. Apr 3, 2015