Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Swoager, Cox '85
Page Views: 4,133 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

131 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


Follow the finger crack up the slab until you reach a stance. Follow small holds utilizing balance to reach a jug. Pull up to a comfy ledge. Follow face climbing on positive horizontals until you reach the anchor.


Just left of New River Gunks, just right of the distortionist, on huge flake.


A variety of small gear from 0 to .75 down low. A #2 Camalot and small tricams and cams are helpful up high. Bolted anchor.


Drew Zedosky
Lakewood, Colorado
Drew Zedosky   Lakewood, Colorado
Awesome route, really is a one move wonder, small but safe gear down low, an easy runout and a "bigger" cam (BD #2) up top to place in the horizontal Mar 11, 2015
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
One move, agreed. But what a move. I was glad to have a team from Wisconsin below happy to share their beta on this one. Apr 8, 2015
Jacob Sustrich
Jacob Sustrich  
Plant your foot and just keep pulling. Your hand will find the hold sooner or later Jun 23, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
Very height related crux move. For anyone ~5'6" and under it's probably a 10a/b. Taller than that it gets easier. If you're 6'+ it probably feels 9. Jul 14, 2017
Sequoia National Park, CA
Wesley   Sequoia National Park, CA
I could not find the 10a/b beta. That one move felt very V2, in which case this climb would be 11a. I do have a bad habit of ignoring very obvious, easier beta. Who knows.

Felt 5.9 before the move and 5.7 after the move. Dec 31, 2018