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Routes in Junkyard Wall

Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Antropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Contortionist, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enteruptus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jumping Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junk Yard Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yew Nosemite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Swoager, Cox '85
Page Views: 3,766 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Follow the finger crack up the slab until you reach a stance. Follow small holds utilizing balance to reach a jug. Pull up to a comfy ledge. Follow face climbing on positive horizontals until you reach the anchor.

Location

Just left of New River Gunks, just right of the distortionist, on huge flake.

Protection

A variety of small gear from 0 to .75 down low. A #2 Camalot and small tricams and cams are helpful up high. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Drew Zedosky
Lakewood, Colorado
Drew Zedosky   Lakewood, Colorado
Awesome route, really is a one move wonder, small but safe gear down low, an easy runout and a "bigger" cam (BD #2) up top to place in the horizontal Mar 11, 2015
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
 
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
 
One move, agreed. But what a move. I was glad to have a team from Wisconsin below happy to share their beta on this one. Apr 8, 2015
Jacob Sustrich
  5.9-
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.9-
Plant your foot and just keep pulling. Your hand will find the hold sooner or later Jun 23, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a/b
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a/b
Very height related crux move. For anyone ~5'6" and under it's probably a 10a/b. Taller than that it gets easier. If you're 6'+ it probably feels 9. Jul 14, 2017

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