Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Swoager, Cox '85
Page Views: 4,133 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Follow the finger crack up the slab until you reach a stance. Follow small holds utilizing balance to reach a jug. Pull up to a comfy ledge. Follow face climbing on positive horizontals until you reach the anchor.

Location

Just left of New River Gunks, just right of the distortionist, on huge flake.

Protection

A variety of small gear from 0 to .75 down low. A #2 Camalot and small tricams and cams are helpful up high. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Drew Zedosky
Lakewood, Colorado
Drew Zedosky   Lakewood, Colorado
Awesome route, really is a one move wonder, small but safe gear down low, an easy runout and a "bigger" cam (BD #2) up top to place in the horizontal Mar 11, 2015
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
 
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
 
One move, agreed. But what a move. I was glad to have a team from Wisconsin below happy to share their beta on this one. Apr 8, 2015
Jacob Sustrich
  5.9-
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.9-
Plant your foot and just keep pulling. Your hand will find the hold sooner or later Jun 23, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a/b
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a/b
Very height related crux move. For anyone ~5'6" and under it's probably a 10a/b. Taller than that it gets easier. If you're 6'+ it probably feels 9. Jul 14, 2017
Wesley
Sequoia National Park, CA
  5.11a
Wesley   Sequoia National Park, CA
  5.11a
I could not find the 10a/b beta. That one move felt very V2, in which case this climb would be 11a. I do have a bad habit of ignoring very obvious, easier beta. Who knows.

Felt 5.9 before the move and 5.7 after the move. Dec 31, 2018