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Routes in Junkyard Wall

Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Antropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Contortionist, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enteruptus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jumping Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junk Yard Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yew Nosemite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Swoager, Cox '85
Page Views: 3,656 total, 28/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


119 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Follow the finger crack up the slab until you reach a stance. Follow small holds utilizing balance to reach a jug. Pull up to a comfy ledge. Follow face climbing on positive horizontals until you reach the anchor.

Location

Just left of New River Gunks, just right of the distortionist, on huge flake.

Protection

A variety of small gear from 0 to .75 down low. A #2 Camalot and small tricams and cams are helpful up high. Bolted anchor.
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a/b
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a/b
Very height related crux move. For anyone ~5'6" and under it's probably a 10a/b. Taller than that it gets easier. If you're 6'+ it probably feels 9. Jul 14, 2017
Jacob Sustrich
  5.9-
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.9-
Plant your foot and just keep pulling. Your hand will find the hold sooner or later Jun 23, 2017
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
 
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
 
One move, agreed. But what a move. I was glad to have a team from Wisconsin below happy to share their beta on this one. Apr 8, 2015
Drew Zedosky
Lakewood, Colorado
Drew Zedosky   Lakewood, Colorado
Awesome route, really is a one move wonder, small but safe gear down low, an easy runout and a "bigger" cam (BD #2) up top to place in the horizontal Mar 11, 2015