Elevation: 1,443 ft
GPS: 38.08477, -81.08144
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 155,063 total · 1,365/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.

Getting There

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 27
Warm-up Roof
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Cave Routes 1 and 2
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 315
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 173
Jumping Jack Flash
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 469
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
The Contortionist
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 50
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 331
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 224
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 183
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 165
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 54
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 44
Zealous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 64
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 71
Reachers of Habit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Warm-up Roof Junkyard Cave
 27
V2 5+ Boulder
Cave Routes 1 and 2 Junkyard Wall
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
New River Gunks Junkyard Wall
 315
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumping Jack Flash Junkyard Wall
 173
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
New Yosemite Junkyard Wall
 469
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist Junkyard Wall
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
V-Slot Junkyard Wall
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Wall
 331
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer Junkyard Wall
 224
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus Junkyard Wall
 183
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Wall
 165
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment Junkyard Wall
 54
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Zealous Zealous Area
 44
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stuck In Another Dimension Junkyard Wall
 64
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit Junkyard Wall
 71
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Junkyard Area »

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