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Areas in Junkyard Area

Cat Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Dog Wall 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Junkyard Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Junkyard Wall 28 / 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Zealous Area 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.

Getting There

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Cave Routes 1 and 2
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 207
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 113
Jumping Jack Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Labrador Reliever
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 300
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
The Contortionist
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 216
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 154
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 126
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 106
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 36
Zealous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 44
Reachers of Habit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Routes 1 and 2 Junkyard Wall
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
New River Gunks Junkyard Wall
 207
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumping Jack Flash Junkyard Wall
 113
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Labrador Reliever Cat Cliff
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
New Yosemite Junkyard Wall
 300
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist Junkyard Wall
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
V-Slot Junkyard Wall
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Wall
 216
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer Junkyard Wall
 154
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus Junkyard Wall
 126
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Wall
 106
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment Junkyard Wall
 40
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Zealous Zealous Area
 36
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stuck In Another Dimension Junkyard Wall
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit Junkyard Wall
 44
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Junkyard Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Ladd    
Yes we guides do take New River Gunks, Distortionist, Keep it Tight, and the Cave Routes, but the classics that are harder than 5.8 are never taken by guides because we don't want to have to haul our clients up them. Don't fear, Junkyard's 5.9 classics won't be being used by guides on weekends, only by every gym rat within 100+ miles. Aug 2, 2007
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
Okay...my mistake...I shouldn't have gone there on a weekend of a three day holiday weekend...between the guides and the top ropers it was almost impossible to get a lead in here. Doesn't anyone lead routes here? I heard one group of two say to their friends, another group of two..."we have a rope set up on a 5.7, a 5.8, a 5.9 and the 5.11 around the corner..." but I digress... May 27, 2008
DaveB  
That sucks. If possible, try again - mid-week, early morning. Great routes, worth a second try. Jun 10, 2008
Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
Definitely. I personally only swing by Junkyard on weekdays with a high threat of rain. Seems to do the trick. We were there last Thursday and had the whole crag to ourselves. Aug 13, 2009

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