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Areas in Junkyard Area

Cat Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Dog Wall 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Junkyard Wall 28 / 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Zealous Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 1,443 ft
GPS: 38.085, -81.081 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 43,988 total, 896/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

Description

All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.
Writing in chalk Details

Getting There

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Routes 1 and 2
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jumping Jack Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labrador Reliever
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Contortionist
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zealous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reachers of Habit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Routes 1 and 2 Junkyard Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
New River Gunks Junkyard Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumping Jack Flash Junkyard Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Labrador Reliever Cat Cliff 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
New Yosemite Junkyard Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist Junkyard Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
V-Slot Junkyard Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer Junkyard Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus Junkyard Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment Junkyard Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Zealous Zealous Area 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stuck In Another Dimension Junkyard Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit Junkyard Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Junkyard Area »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
Definitely. I personally only swing by Junkyard on weekdays with a high threat of rain. Seems to do the trick. We were there last Thursday and had the whole crag to ourselves. Aug 13, 2009
DaveB  
That sucks. If possible, try again - mid-week, early morning. Great routes, worth a second try. Jun 10, 2008
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
Okay...my mistake...I shouldn't have gone there on a weekend of a three day holiday weekend...between the guides and the top ropers it was almost impossible to get a lead in here. Doesn't anyone lead routes here? I heard one group of two say to their friends, another group of two..."we have a rope set up on a 5.7, a 5.8, a 5.9 and the 5.11 around the corner..." but I digress... May 27, 2008
Ladd    
Yes we guides do take New River Gunks, Distortionist, Keep it Tight, and the Cave Routes, but the classics that are harder than 5.8 are never taken by guides because we don't want to have to haul our clients up them. Don't fear, Junkyard's 5.9 classics won't be being used by guides on weekends, only by every gym rat within 100+ miles. Aug 2, 2007

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