Elevation: 1,443 ft
GPS: 38.085, -81.081 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 117,723 total · 1,284/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.

Getting There

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Cave Routes 1 and 2
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 274
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 146
Jumping Jack Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Labrador Reliever
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 407
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 50
The Contortionist
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 281
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 198
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 160
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 144
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 46
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Zealous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 60
Reachers of Habit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Routes 1 and 2 Junkyard Wall
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
New River Gunks Junkyard Wall
 274
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumping Jack Flash Junkyard Wall
 146
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Labrador Reliever Cat Cliff
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
New Yosemite Junkyard Wall
 407
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist Junkyard Wall
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
V-Slot Junkyard Wall
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Wall
 281
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer Junkyard Wall
 198
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus Junkyard Wall
 160
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Wall
 144
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment Junkyard Wall
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Zealous Zealous Area
 42
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stuck In Another Dimension Junkyard Wall
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit Junkyard Wall
 60
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Junkyard Area »

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