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Junkyard Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Junkyard Area

Cat Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Dog Wall 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Junkyard Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Junkyard Wall 36 / 1 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39

Zealous Area 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

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Elevation:	1,443 ft	440 m
GPS:	38.08477, -81.08144 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	157,107 total · 1,130/month
Shared By:	Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.

Getting There

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

64 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V5 6C 15 ● Chick Direct Boulder Junkyard Cave
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 55 ● Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR Junkyard Wall
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 355 ● New River Gunks Trad, TR Junkyard Wall
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 209 ● Jumpin' Jack Flash Trad Junkyard Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Labrador Reliever Trad Cat Cliff
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 563 ● New Yosemite Trad, TR Junkyard Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 67 ● The Contortionist Trad, TR Junkyard Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 394 ● Four Sheets to the Wind Trad Junkyard Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 265 ● The Entertainer Trad, TR Junkyard Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 206 ● Team Jesus Trad Junkyard Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 194 ● Rapscallion's Blues Trad Junkyard Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 65 ● Realignment Trad, TR Junkyard Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 48 ● Zealous Trad Zealous Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 80 ● Stuck In Another Dimension Trad Junkyard Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 81 ● Reachers of Habit Sport Junkyard Wall