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Elevation: 1,443 ft 440 m
GPS: 38.08477, -81.08144
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 156,727 total · 1,227/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.

Getting There Suggest change

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

62 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 8
Chick Direct
Boulder
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 338
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 197
Jumpin' Jack Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Labrador Reliever
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 527
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 61
The Contortionist
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 370
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 248
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 198
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 180
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 59
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 46
Zealous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 75
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 77
Reachers of Habit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chick Direct Junkyard Cave
 8
V5 6C Boulder
New River Gunks Junkyard Wall
 338
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumpin' Jack Flash Junkyard Wall
 197
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Labrador Reliever Cat Cliff
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
New Yosemite Junkyard Wall
 527
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist Junkyard Wall
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
V-Slot Junkyard Wall
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Wall
 370
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer Junkyard Wall
 248
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus Junkyard Wall
 198
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Wall
 180
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment Junkyard Wall
 59
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Zealous Zealous Area
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stuck In Another Dimension Junkyard Wall
 75
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit Junkyard Wall
 77
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Junkyard Area »

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