Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984)
Page Views: 6,940 total · 43/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jun 12, 2007
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, SmithVentures, Pnelson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.

Location

Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.

Protection

Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Bolted anchor.

Photos