Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984)
Page Views: 5,547 total · 40/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jun 12, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.

Location

Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.

Protection

Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Bolted anchor.

Photos

Sawyerdougz  
 
Contrary to the description I found the initial, steep finger crack, dihedral to be the crux. 25ft or so without a good rest, placing pro is strenuous here. Aug 5, 2015
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
this climb is seriously incredible considering it's a short one. The move after the roof is ridiculous IMO and takes away from the charm. Mar 25, 2016
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.10c/d
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.10c/d
Solid for the grade, takes good gear the whole way except the right trending rail before the first roof. (There may actually be good gear there but if this climb is anywhere near your limit like it was for me, good luck stopping to place it.) Really cool climb though that delivers a punch with each of the 4 cruxes. Sep 20, 2016
Kyle vH
 
Kyle vH  
 
I did this route over a decade ago and loved it, I thought the initial overhanding dihedral wasn't too bad if you get wide stems. The roofs were fun and easy, though the second is awkward. The middle slab was the crux for me. I had to make a quick dynamic deadpoint to a rail, and it was probably my first non-static trad move, I remember it fondly. Jul 30, 2017