Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Horst, Guider '87
Page Views: 2,329 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Awesome climb. Beware for dirty holds after rain.

1st bolt is a bit high but clipping stance is solid on a bomber horizontal and a big right hand flake. Balance and technique are essential for gaining the second and third bolts. Taller climbers can follow bolt line but shorter climbers might be forced into a detour out left that ends is a hard deadpoint off of non-existent feet. After clipping 3rd bolt use bad dish and high smeared foot to gain flake/layback system on the left to an easier finish.

Note: this route used to end 12 ft short of the top of the cliff, it now ends at the top of the cliff and the anchors are reachable from the gravel covered ledge.

Location

Route lies immediatly left of The Contortionist and 2 routes left of classic but heavily guided 5.7.

Protection

Newly replaced bolts and Anchor by Jim Taylor. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 Camalot about three feet below the flake. Bolted anchor.

Photos

0 Comments