Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: McCarthy, Swoager '85
Page Views: 8,231 total · 57/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


214 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb starts immediatly left of right facing arete and J.Y.D.
Technical and interesting moves and protection denote the route's lower half while the upper half's mini-roof gives this climb its 3rd star and its + rating

Location

Route lies right of Team Jesus and left of JYD on gigantic flake (50' by 25' by 80')

Protection

Tricams, nuts and small cams are useful in the bottom half of the route. A #5 camalot will allow you very comfortably protect the finishing moves if you so desire. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Jacob Sustrich
  5.7+
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.7+
Our friend did it for his first lead, no real problems and he felt confident the entire way despite it being about 11PM and dark as sin out. Lots of fun to climb with only headlamps. Mar 15, 2015
Josh Vondran
Salt Lake City
Josh Vondran   Salt Lake City
A #4 is large enough for the crack up top. You just have to know where to place it. Jun 19, 2017
Wesley
Morgantown WV
  5.9
Wesley   Morgantown WV
  5.9
Maybe I had an off day. Everything besides the 5.6 to the left felt way harder than the grade. That being said, if you were to compare the hardest moves on this thing to the hardest moves on another slab climb (I'm thinking Fool Effect at Endless), I'd put this at 5.8+ or 5.9 for the first little bit

I'm also quite new to leading face climbs on gear, and my nerves could have been making things harder for me. I'll so this one again some time and see if my game was just off or if my opinion holds. Dec 31, 2018