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Routes in Junkyard Wall
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Andropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Are You Not Entertained? T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bo Knows T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Contortionist, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Sap T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Enteruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Equine Proctologist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jumping Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Junk Yard Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New River Punks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Ragrets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On Your Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yew Nosemite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | FA - Nate Sydnor, with help from lots of folks. Many thanks to Kathy Karlo, Mark Pugeda, Brooks Wenzel, Pat Goodman and Amanda Smith |
| Page Views: | 493 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on May 21, 2021 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
Description
Hopefully some folks who stumble upon this will be old/savvy enough to remember the Nike commercials from BITD with Bo Jackson, one of history's greatest athletes. One thing for sure; Bo knew his sports.
This route has some awesome features, including one of the coolest iron deposits I've seen, but as first ascents go it's another scrap; short and to the point. The climbing is mostly easy until the top of the flake, where one will encounter a slightly funky mantle. This sets you up for the crux, which is above your hopefully-good gear. I'm pretty sure the massive flake is sturdy but I never truly tested it. The boulder problem above is what the route boils down to. Once complete, you get good gear again before the final boulder problem to the ledge. At the top there is a rhodo you can sling before shuffling over and up to the "V-Slot" anchor.
Most of us found the slimpers to be condition-dependent. The right conditions will equate to an easier route. The wrong conditions will likely equal desperation.
Location
The right side of the obvious mammoth flake just to the right of "Who Knows", then slightly straight up through the only holds to the top of the wall.
Protection
Like other routes I've done of this nature, I thoroughly inspected this thing to wire it in. I did not want to risk the fall above the flake, and I had a lot of solo time on my hands. If you're intrepid enough to go up on-sight, good on ya. Take a few cams in the BD .3 and .4 range. I also placed a BD .75. That's pretty much it.
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