Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Erkstine, Horton '79
Page Views: 18,703 total · 130/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


311 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Follow the 2" sized crack through a bulge and sequential jams until you reach a comfortable rest ledge. From here, follow much easier climbing on generous holds to the anchor.

Location

Start just right of wooden fence at obvious hand splitter running 2/3 way up the wall

Protection

Multiples of #1 and #2 camalot sizes. A #3 may be helpful. After the ledge rest, smaller gear is available as well. Bolted anchor.
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.8
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.8
Great crack to learn jamming on. The bottom will be a little wide, especially if you've got smaller hands, but it quickly narrows down just a bit to pretty much perfect hands.

Also: beware the sucker jug out right. Getting back into the crack from it is a bitch. Aug 18, 2016
Wesley
Morgantown WV
  5.10a
Wesley   Morgantown WV
  5.10a
After multiple laps on toprope over the course of this year, I finally lead this thing. It remained hard. The hands were sufficient but on the thin side for me, which made the crux pretty challenging.

I needed two BD #1s, two #2s, a single #3 and a .4 for the top. I may have placed one more piece near the top but I'm not sure. The placements are bomber and I took a small whip on one of the #1s I placed.

I've rated this 10a, which may seem outrageous, but no other crack climb at the 5.9 or 10a grade has given me more problems.

As a final note, this thing is really, really fun. Dec 31, 2018