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Elevation: 1,821 ft
GPS: 38.15362, -80.93385
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Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

CLICK HERE TO REPORT BAD BOLTS!

The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as The Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.

Areas are listed right to left- in the order that you will reach them from the approach.

Getting There Suggest change

***NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.  THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL*** 



The following driving directions are described from Fayetteville, after crossing the Meadow River Bridge, as you drive north from Fayetteville, take the first left onto Underwood Rd and then turn left again onto Dietz Road. A small gravel lot is available for parking, though it will only hold about 20 vehicles. Please park conservatively, choose to carpool, and arrive early for weekend access. From the gravel lot, continue hiking uphill on Dietz Road (approximately 100 yards) and turn left on an apparent ATV trail. Follow this trail for 5-10 minutes as it trends gently downhill through the forest. When the path splits, a narrow trail on your right will lead to the ultra-popular cliff-top bouldering known as Meadow Top; but the widest downhill trail leads to Lower Meadow climbing.  Stick to this main trail and the cliff line will be obvious within another 5-10 mins.  There are small, new ATV trails that might be misleading, but follow the most obvious wide rocky path.   

124 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Arachniphobia
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 52
Great White Dihedral aka Begoon/…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Tabasco Fur
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 82
Just Another Pretty Face
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 42
Trojans
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 47
Mr. Mogley
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 183
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Big Top
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Gato
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Mind Bomb
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 55
Puppy Chow
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
Ruda Tovar (AKA Porter's 12c)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
The Greatest Show On Earth
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 17
White Trash
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 24
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arachniphobia 5 Sunkist Wall
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Great White Dihedral aka Be… 3 Greatest Show Area
 52
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Tabasco Fur 4 Moon Wall
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Just Another Pretty Face 3 Greatest Show Area
 82
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Trojans 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 42
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Mr. Mogley 5 Sunkist Wall
 47
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 183
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Big Top 3 Greatest Show Area
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Gato 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mind Bomb 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Puppy Chow 3 Greatest Show Area
 55
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ruda Tovar (AKA Porter's 12c) 3 Greatest Show Area
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Greatest Show On Earth 3 Greatest Show Area
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
White Trash 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 17
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) 3 Greatest Show Area
 24
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Meadow »

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