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Areas in Lower Meadow

Greatest Show Area 8 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Moon Wall 20 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Sunkist Wall 10 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Tan Wall 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Toxic Hueco Area 12 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as Lynn Hill's Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.

Getting There

For all the areas described here, take your first left after the Meadow River Bridge as you drive north from Fayetteville, onto Underwood Rd. Drive about one hundred yards, and when the road makes a hard right, park on the side of the road. You will hike toward the gorge through some of the ugliest, trashiest redneck campsites in the area. Keep trending right (left will take you to the Upper Meadow buttresses), and after 5-10 minutes of easy walking on a four-wheeler track you will see cliff-line to your right.

***Climbers and kayakers sometimes park on the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the bridge. On busy weekends, there can easily be two dozen vehicles here. DO NOT PARK past the sign that says, wait for it, NO PARKING. This sign exists to allow emergency vehicle access to the Lower Meadow, and the local law enforcement is getting sick of it being blocked.***

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Begoon/Artz Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Arachniphobia
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Tabasco Fur
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
By the Way, I Did Your Mom
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Chimpanzabubbas
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 36
Just Another Pretty Face
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 19
Trojans
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 32
Ghandian Dilution
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 88
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 42
Cat Food
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Gato
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Go Cat Go!
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Puppy Chow
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Begoon/Artz Corner Greatest Show Area
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Arachniphobia Sunkist Wall
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tabasco Fur Moon Wall
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
By the Way, I Did Your Mom Toxic Hueco Area
 46
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Chimpanzabubbas Toxic Hueco Area
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Just Another Pretty Face Greatest Show Area
 36
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Trojans Toxic Hueco Area
 19
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Ghandian Dilution Toxic Hueco Area
 32
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco Toxic Hueco Area
 88
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cat Food Toxic Hueco Area
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gato Toxic Hueco Area
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Go Cat Go! Toxic Hueco Area
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Puppy Chow Greatest Show Area
 21
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's… Greatest Show Area
 11
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) Greatest Show Area
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Meadow »

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