Elevation: 1,821 ft
GPS: 38.154, -80.934 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 146,166 total · 1,520/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson, Pat Goodman
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

CLICK HERE TO REPORT BAD BOLTS!

***LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as Lynn Hill's Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.

Areas are listed right to left- in the order that you will reach them from the approach.

Getting There

For all the areas described here, take your first left after the Meadow River Bridge as you drive north from Fayetteville, onto Underwood Rd. Drive about one hundred yards, and when the road makes a hard right, park on the side of the road. You will hike toward the gorge through some of the ugliest, trashiest redneck campsites in the area. Keep trending right (left will take you to the Upper Meadow buttresses), and after 5-10 minutes of easy walking on a four-wheeler track you will see cliff-line to your right.

***Climbers and kayakers sometimes park on the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the bridge. On busy weekends, there can easily be two dozen vehicles here. DO NOT PARK past the sign that says, wait for it, NO PARKING. This sign exists to allow emergency vehicle access to the Lower Meadow, and the local law enforcement is getting sick of it being blocked.***

110 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Arachniphobia
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 37
Begoon/Artz Corner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
Tabasco Fur
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
By the Way, I Did Your Mom
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 49
Winter Harvest
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 62
Chimpanzabubbas
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
Just Another Pretty Face
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 32
Trojans
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 34
Mr. Mogley
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 60
Ghandian Dilution
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 134
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 63
Cat Food
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 65
Gato
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 44
Go Cat Go!
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 43
Puppy Chow
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arachniphobia 5 Sunkist Wall
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Begoon/Artz Corner 3 Greatest Show Area
 37
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Tabasco Fur 4 Moon Wall
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
By the Way, I Did Your Mom 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 70
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Winter Harvest 4 Moon Wall
 49
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chimpanzabubbas 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 62
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Just Another Pretty Face 3 Greatest Show Area
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Trojans 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 32
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Mr. Mogley 5 Sunkist Wall
 34
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ghandian Dilution 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 60
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 134
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cat Food 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 63
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gato 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 65
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Go Cat Go! 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 44
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Puppy Chow 3 Greatest Show Area
 43
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Meadow »

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