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Lower Meadow Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Lower Meadow

1 Tan Wall 11 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

2 Toxic Hueco Area 18 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31

3 Greatest Show Area 9 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20

4 Moon Wall 23 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25

5 Sunkist Wall 11 / 15 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30

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Elevation:	1,821 ft	555 m
GPS:	38.15362, -80.93385 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	190,547 total · 1,381/month
Shared By:	camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

**NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.

THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***

Description

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The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as The Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.

Areas are listed right to left- in the order that you will reach them from the approach.

Getting There

***NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD. THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***

The following driving directions are described from Fayetteville, after crossing the Meadow River Bridge, as you drive north from Fayetteville, take the first left onto Underwood Rd and then turn left again onto Dietz Road. A small gravel lot is available for parking, though it will only hold about 20 vehicles. Please park conservatively, choose to carpool, and arrive early for weekend access. From the gravel lot, continue hiking uphill on Dietz Road (approximately 100 yards) and turn left on an apparent ATV trail. Follow this trail for 5-10 minutes as it trends gently downhill through the forest. When the path splits, a narrow trail on your right will lead to the ultra-popular cliff-top bouldering known as Meadow Top; but the widest downhill trail leads to Lower Meadow climbing. Stick to this main trail and the cliff line will be obvious within another 5-10 mins. There are small, new ATV trails that might be misleading, but follow the most obvious wide rocky path.

125 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 38 ● Arachniphobia Trad 5 Sunkist Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 61 ● Great White Dihedral aka Begoon/… Trad 3 Greatest Show Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 46 ● Tabasco Fur Trad 4 Moon Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 102 ● Just Another Pretty Face Sport 3 Greatest Show Area
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 44 ● Trojans Trad 2 Toxic Hueco Area
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 53 ● Mr. Mogley Sport 5 Sunkist Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 206 ● Toxic Hueco Sport 2 Toxic Hueco Area
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 19 ● Big Top Trad 3 Greatest Show Area
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 106 ● Gato Sport 2 Toxic Hueco Area
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 72 ● Go Cat Go! Sport 2 Toxic Hueco Area
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 65 ● Puppy Chow Sport 3 Greatest Show Area
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 22 ● Ruda Tovar (AKA Porter's 12c) Sport 3 Greatest Show Area
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 9 ● The Greatest Show On Earth Trad 3 Greatest Show Area
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 20 ● White Trash Sport 2 Toxic Hueco Area
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 30 ● Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) Sport 3 Greatest Show Area