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Areas in Lower Meadow

Greatest Show Area 8 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Moon Wall 15 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Sunkist Wall 7 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Tan Wall 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Toxic Hueco Area 9 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Elevation: 1,650 ft
GPS: 38.15, -80.927 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
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Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as Lynn Hill's Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.
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Getting There

For all the areas described here, take your first left after the Meadow River Bridge as you drive north from Fayetteville, onto Underwood Rd. Drive about one hundred yards, and when the road makes a hard right, park on the side of the road. You will hike toward the gorge through some of the ugliest, trashiest redneck campsites in the area. Keep trending right (left will take you to the Upper Meadow buttresses), and after 5-10 minutes of easy walking on a four-wheeler track you will see cliff-line to your right.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arachniphobia
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
By the Way, I Did Your Mom
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimpanzabubbas
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just Another Pretty Face
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trojans
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghandian Dilution
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cat Food
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gato
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go Cat Go!
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Puppy Chow
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
White Trash
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days)
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mango Tango
Sport
Arachniphobia Sunkist Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
By the Way, I Did Your Mom Toxic Hueco Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Chimpanzabubbas Toxic Hueco Area 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Just Another Pretty Face Greatest Show Area 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Trojans Toxic Hueco Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Ghandian Dilution Toxic Hueco Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco Toxic Hueco Area 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cat Food Toxic Hueco Area 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gato Toxic Hueco Area 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Go Cat Go! Toxic Hueco Area 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Puppy Chow Greatest Show Area 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's… Greatest Show Area 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
White Trash Toxic Hueco Area 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) Greatest Show Area 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mango Tango Greatest Show Area 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
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Pnelson    
Climbers and kayakers sometimes park on the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the bridge. On busy weekends, there can easily be two dozen vehicles here. DO NOT PARK past the sign that says, wait for it, NO PARKING. This sign exists to allow emergency vehicle access to the Lower Meadow, and the local law enforcement is getting sick of it being blocked. May 23, 2017

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