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Routes in Greatest Show Area

Back to Power T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Begoon/Artz Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Top T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackened Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carny Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Greatest Show On Earth, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Interpreting Intermission S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mango Tango S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Puppy Chow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ringmaster, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scratchy Biscuits T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ziggerknot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Lynn Hill, Russ Raffa
Page Views: 992 total, 12/month
Shared By: camhead on May 16, 2011
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a very aesthetic-looking splitter crack, which starts about forty feet up and above a roof. To start, you can either scramble up easy terrain to the left, or do a direct start through some steep horizontals that adds some 5.11 R climbing. Easy climbing up to a juggy roof with some suspect rock, clip a couple fixed pieces, and get an almost-no hands rest at the base of the splitter.

I don't want to give too much beta away on the splitter, except to say that there is very little true jamming/crack climbing on this route.

The first ascent continued past where the bolt anchor is at the base of the upper roof and went to the top. This last 25 feet through the juggy roof is amazing. We've all been cheated out of the route's best climbing by lowering from the first anchor. Mikey added a top anchor so now it's easy to continue to the top, lower back to the first anchor, untie, pull the rope, and lower again. It'd be a nightmare to try to clean it from the top. It's definitely worth the extra effort.

Location

This is the farthest right prominent line at the Mango Tango/Greatest Show area. Very nice looking splitter going up white rock.

Protection

medium to big stoppers, selection of mid-sized cams, one fixed stopper just above the roof, and a bolt right above that. You'll probably want a .5 camalot/orange Metolius sized piece to protect the crux.

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