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> 3 Greatest Show Area
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days)
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 30 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Matt Lavender (1993) |
Page Views: | 5,256 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Jun 29, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Upon first inspection this route might look a little silly because it has a 30 foot lip traverse. Get on the route and you'll see that the route definitely takes the line of least resistance and the traverse is actually quite complex and fun.
Start with three bolts of easy blocky climbing. The first hard moves involve technical movement around a roof. Get creative by knee barring or heel hooking around this deceptively tricky roof.
Once established on the lip move right between slopers and good jugs. Don't be afraid to lead with your feet. Once you reach the base of the hanging arete you are rewarded with a really good rest.
There are two options for making it through the beginning crux section of the arete. You can slap directly up the arete for a couple hard moves or you can move further right through a selection of slopers. The more direct version could be reachy for anyone with a wingspan less than 5'8". Which ever version you choose, do be careful not to land in the pine tree.
The rest of the overhanging arete contains thoughtful movement between deep pockets. A few more decent rests diminish the pump heading to the chains.
Overall this is one of the most unique sport routes in the NRG region. With the recent addition of long fixed cable draws on the traverse the experience has been made much more convenient and enjoyable.
Start with three bolts of easy blocky climbing. The first hard moves involve technical movement around a roof. Get creative by knee barring or heel hooking around this deceptively tricky roof.
Once established on the lip move right between slopers and good jugs. Don't be afraid to lead with your feet. Once you reach the base of the hanging arete you are rewarded with a really good rest.
There are two options for making it through the beginning crux section of the arete. You can slap directly up the arete for a couple hard moves or you can move further right through a selection of slopers. The more direct version could be reachy for anyone with a wingspan less than 5'8". Which ever version you choose, do be careful not to land in the pine tree.
The rest of the overhanging arete contains thoughtful movement between deep pockets. A few more decent rests diminish the pump heading to the chains.
Overall this is one of the most unique sport routes in the NRG region. With the recent addition of long fixed cable draws on the traverse the experience has been made much more convenient and enjoyable.
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