Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Matt Lavender (1993)
Page Views: 2,928 total · 28/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Jun 29, 2011
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

Upon first inspection this route might look a little silly because it has a 30 foot lip traverse. Get on the route and you'll see that the route definitely takes the line of least resistance and the traverse is actually quite complex and fun.

Start with three bolts of easy blocky climbing. The first hard moves involve technical movement around a roof. Get creative by knee barring or heel hooking around this deceptively tricky roof.

Once established on the lip move right between slopers and good jugs. Don't be afraid to lead with your feet. Once you reach the base of the hanging arete you are rewarded with a really good rest.

There are two options for making it through the beginning crux section of the arete. You can slap directly up the arete for a couple hard moves or you can move further right through a selection of slopers. The more direct version could be reachy for anyone with a wingspan less than 5'8". Which ever version you choose, do be careful not to land in the pine tree.

The rest of the overhanging arete contains thoughtful movement between deep pockets. A few more decent rests diminish the pump heading to the chains.

Overall this is one of the most unique sport routes in the NRG region. With the recent addition of long fixed cable draws on the traverse the experience has been made much more convenient and enjoyable.

Location

This route is hard to miss, located just left of Puppy Chow. It travels up the left side of the giant roof.

Protection

12 bolts + anchor. Three long cable draws on the traverse section. Take a long draw for the first bolt on the arete.

Photos