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Routes in Greatest Show Area

Back to Power T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Begoon/Artz Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Top T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackened Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carny Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Greatest Show On Earth, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Interpreting Intermission S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mango Tango S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Puppy Chow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ringmaster, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scratchy Biscuits T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ziggerknot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Matt Lavender (1993)
Page Views: 2,076 total, 26/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Jun 29, 2011
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Upon first inspection this route might look a little silly because it has a 30 foot lip traverse. Get on the route and you'll see that the route definitely takes the line of least resistance and the traverse is actually quite complex and fun.

Start with three bolts of easy blocky climbing. The first hard moves involve technical movement around a roof. Get creative by knee barring or heel hooking around this deceptively tricky roof.

Once established on the lip move right between slopers and good jugs. Don't be afraid to lead with your feet. Once you reach the base of the hanging arete you are rewarded with a really good rest.

There are two options for making it through the beginning crux section of the arete. You can slap directly up the arete for a couple hard moves or you can move further right through a selection of slopers. The more direct version could be reachy for anyone with a wingspan less than 5'8". Which ever version you choose, do be careful not to land in the pine tree.

The rest of the overhanging arete contains thoughtful movement between deep pockets. A few more decent rests diminish the pump heading to the chains.

Overall this is one of the most unique sport routes in the NRG region. With the recent addition of long fixed cable draws on the traverse the experience has been made much more convenient and enjoyable.

Location

This route is hard to miss, located just left of Puppy Chow. It travels up the left side of the giant roof.

Protection

12 bolts + anchor. Three long cable draws on the traverse section. Take a long draw for the first bolt on the arete.

Photos

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Gummy
Akron, OH
  5.12d
Gummy   Akron, OH
  5.12d
Desription: *Spoiler Alert* Sep 25, 2017
Good Lord you think we got enough beta in the description? Sep 11, 2017
Kurtrude  
 
This route is also referred to as "Mighty Dog" in the latest NRG guidebook. May 30, 2017