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Routes in Toxic Hueco Area

Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
By the Way, I Did Your Mom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cat Food S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimpanzabubbas T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cock Diesel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crag Memorial S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying Rodent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghandian Dilution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Cat Go! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inertial Twists S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meadowlark T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Bomb T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Night Time Is the Right Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Trees and Hula Hoops T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxic Hueco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trident S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Trojans T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wasted Wimper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1990
Page Views: 4,983 total, 49/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 20, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

If you come to this area, don't miss this route! Truly classic! Start by climbing up to gain a large hueco. Figure out a way to reach the next good holds above it (crux). From here, pull the small overhang and head up and right a bit aiming for the next larger overhang. Once you reach the large overhang, head a bit left and pull over the lip using an awesome hold, but you have to find it. Gain a stance and try to shake out. The rest of the climbing is steep, but the holds are all super good, just move quickly. The upper face is just fun stuff!

Location

This route is located to the left side of the Toxic Hueco wall. If you take the right path to the cliff, it should put you right at the base of the climb. You'll see the large hueco. It's also just to the left of the obvious overhanging crack, Trojans.

Protection

9 bolts, shuts.

Photos

jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Better to have someone clean this on TR as they go up. Clipped into the 3rd bolt direct, cleaned the 2nd bolt below, pulled up and released the 3rd bolt. Before releasing the 3rd bolt had my belayer pull up all the slack. Released from the 3rd and my tailbone came 12 inches from slamming into the boulder below, but still managed to fly into the tree behind this route...HARD! Luckily I anticipated it and went feet first into it while using my legs as suspension. Oct 23, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
This line is simply unbelievable. It doesn't seem like something like this could possibly form naturally. It is simply amazing, pumpy, and sustained! Apr 22, 2013
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
I love this one! Jan 25, 2011