Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1990
Page Views: 5,873 total · 51/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 20, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

If you come to this area, don't miss this route! Truly classic! Start by climbing up to gain a large hueco. Figure out a way to reach the next good holds above it (crux). From here, pull the small overhang and head up and right a bit aiming for the next larger overhang. Once you reach the large overhang, head a bit left and pull over the lip using an awesome hold, but you have to find it. Gain a stance and try to shake out. The rest of the climbing is steep, but the holds are all super good, just move quickly. The upper face is just fun stuff!

Location

This route is located to the left side of the Toxic Hueco wall. If you take the right path to the cliff, it should put you right at the base of the climb. You'll see the large hueco. It's also just to the left of the obvious overhanging crack, Trojans.

Protection

9 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
I love this one! Jan 25, 2011
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
This line is simply unbelievable. It doesn't seem like something like this could possibly form naturally. It is simply amazing, pumpy, and sustained! Apr 22, 2013
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Better to have someone clean this on TR as they go up. Clipped into the 3rd bolt direct, cleaned the 2nd bolt below, pulled up and released the 3rd bolt. Before releasing the 3rd bolt had my belayer pull up all the slack. Released from the 3rd and my tailbone came 12 inches from slamming into the boulder below, but still managed to fly into the tree behind this route...HARD! Luckily I anticipated it and went feet first into it while using my legs as suspension. Oct 23, 2015