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Elevation: 1,834 ft 559 m
GPS: 38.15338, -80.92383
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Shared By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

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The Meadow River Gorge (NOT the "Meadows" as many goobers call it) is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge, with all the accompanying pluses (more freedom) and minuses (trash, noise, less-than-quality route development at times). Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place and Zero Buttress, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Parking Suggest change

Update Regarding Meadow River Parking! 

In an effort to remove parking and people from the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the meadow river, the West Virginia Department of Highways has created a new parking area on the left side of Deitz Road. To get there, turn off Route 19 onto Underwood Road and left onto Deitz Road. You should see the parking lot on the left.

This lot can fit about 20 vehicles, so please carpool to the crag!

Parking is not permitted on the shoulder of Route 19 and is not permitted roadside on Dietz Road.  Use the gravel parking lot only.  If you park elsewhere, you are threatening access for all climbers here. 

See the individual sub-sections for detailed hiking directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

The following driving directions are described from Fayetteville, after crossing the Meadow River Bridge, as you drive north from Fayetteville, take the first left onto Underwood Rd and then turn left again onto Dietz Road. A small gravel lot is available for parking, though it will only hold about 20 vehicles. Please park conservatively, choose to carpool, and arrive early for weekend access.  Please don't block the EMT access road (the approach trail) with your vehicle and if parking is full for the day, I'd recommend heading to Summersville Lake or NRG proper instead.  

324 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Meadow River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 99
Egyptian Root Canal
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 243
Ferrovieri
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 207
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 333
Cross-Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 331
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 87
Just Another Pretty Face
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 113
Vanished
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 114
Pistol Whip
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 192
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 141
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 124
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 249
Starry
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 59
Puppy Chow
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 78
Creature
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 70
Eye of Mordor
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Egyptian Root Canal Meadow Top Boul… > 08. Egyptian Boulder
 99
V5 6C Boulder
Ferrovieri Upper Meadow > 3. Second Buttress
 243
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Floaters Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 207
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross-Eyed and Blind Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 333
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 331
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Just Another Pretty Face Lower Meadow > 3 Greatest Show Area
 87
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vanished Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 113
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pistol Whip Upper Meadow > 3. Second Buttress
 114
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco Lower Meadow > 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 192
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Push Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 141
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal Upper Meadow > 3. Second Buttress
 124
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 249
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Puppy Chow Lower Meadow > 3 Greatest Show Area
 59
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Creature Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 78
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Eye of Mordor Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 70
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Meadow River Gorge »

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