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Areas in Meadow River Gorge

Lower Meadow 52 / 42 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 93
Meadow Top Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
South Side Crags 12 / 87 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 99
Upper Meadow 7 / 90 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 97
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

The Meadow River Gorge (NOT the "Meadows" as many goobers call it) is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place and Zero Buttress, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

289 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Meadow River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 66
Berecik
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Free Range Show Poodle
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 83
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 150
Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
Mr. Cute
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 65
Supermoon
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 123
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 70
Flaming Pellets
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 49
Vanished
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 88
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 76
Skull In Hole
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 102
Starry
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 40
Depth Charge
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Berecik Upper Meadow > 0. Zero Buttress
 66
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Free Range Show Poodle S Side Crags > Area 51
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Floaters Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 83
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross Eyed and Blind Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 150
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mr. Cute Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Supermoon Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 65
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 123
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Flaming Pellets S Side Crags > Other Place
 70
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vanished Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 49
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco Lower Meadow > Toxic Hueco Area
 88
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Push Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal Upper Meadow > 3. Second Buttress
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skull In Hole Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 76
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
 102
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Depth Charge S Side Crags > Other Place
 40
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Meadow River Gorge »

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Photos

Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment. Oct 16, 2013
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place? Nov 23, 2013
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future. Nov 23, 2013
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters. Mar 2, 2014
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, newriverclimbing.net/. Mar 5, 2014

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