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All Locations > West Virginia > The New River Gorge

Meadow River Gorge Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Meadow River Gorge

Lower Meadow 44 / 39 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 82
South Side Crags 12 / 72 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 84
Upper Meadow 7 / 89 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 96
Elevation: 1,650 ft
GPS: 38.15, -80.927 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 171,527 total · 1,607/month
Shared By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

The Meadow River Gorge (NOT the "Meadows" as many goobers call it) is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

262 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Meadow River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
● Free Range Show Poodle
Sport
S Side Crags > Area 51
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 73
● Floaters
Sport
Upper Meadow > First Buttress
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 138
● Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
Upper Meadow > First Buttress
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 70
● Mr. Cute
Sport
Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
● Supermoon
Sport
Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 100
● Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 60
● Flaming Pellets
Sport
S Side Crags > Other Place
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 38
● Vanished
Sport
Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 80
● Toxic Hueco
Sport
Lower Meadow > Toxic Hueco Area
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 57
● Push
Sport
Upper Meadow > First Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
● Schneezal
Sport
Upper Meadow > Second Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
● Skull In Hole
Sport
Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 88
● Starry
Sport
Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
● Depth Charge
Sport
S Side Crags > Other Place
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 37
● Lamda
Sport
Upper Meadow > First Buttress
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Free Range Show Poodle S Side Crags > Area 51
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Floaters Upper Meadow > First Buttress
 73
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Cross Eyed and Blind Upper Meadow > First Buttress
 138
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Mr. Cute Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
 70
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Supermoon Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Coffindaffer's Dream Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
 100
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Flaming Pellets S Side Crags > Other Place
 60
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Vanished Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
 38
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Toxic Hueco Lower Meadow > Toxic Hueco Area
 80
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Push Upper Meadow > First Buttress
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Schneezal Upper Meadow > Second Buttress
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Skull In Hole Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Starry Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
 88
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Depth Charge S Side Crags > Other Place
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Lamda Upper Meadow > First Buttress
 37
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Meadow River Gorge »

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Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I prefer this approach to the old railroad bridge alternative.
Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow.…
 15
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place... That puddle can get pretty deep in early spring...
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Plac…
 1
The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.
 1

5 Comments

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Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment. Oct 16, 2013
Cocoapuffs 1000
Cocoapuffs 1000  
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place? Nov 23, 2013
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future. Nov 23, 2013
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters. Mar 2, 2014
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, newriverclimbing.net/. Mar 5, 2014

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