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Routes in Second Buttress

Bull Schneezal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bullocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frog Hunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Lichen It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ikar Lost S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Load S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Madmen Rule the World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Banana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pistol Whip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Bull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rodent's Party S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Schneezal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 1,521 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a great long route! Start by climbing up and make some techy moves to reach excellent holds under the overhang. From here, score a bomber hand jam at the base of the crack in the overhang, find some feet out right, and work your way up the crack aiming for an awesome pocket out left (crux). After pulling the roof, continue up vertical face following a few crack systems. The wall will begin to get slightly overhung and then go back to low angle. As the route turns from overhung to slabby, the holds get a bit slopping. When you get to the top, be sure to look around and enjoy the nice view upstream of the 4th buttress. This route will use every bit of a 60M rope.

Location

When approaching the 2nd Buttress from the 1st Buttress, this is the 2nd bolted line to the left of the large leaning rock tunnel. Locate the large orange hueco. This line climbs the left line out of the hueco through the crack in the roof.

Protection

10 bolts, shuts. There are many placements that can be made throughout the route to supplement the bolts if so inclined, but they are certainly not necessary.

Photos

BrianWS
  5.12a
BrianWS  
  5.12a
After climbing nearly every 12- sport route in the gorge, this one still stands out as my favorite. The rock quality, diversity of terrain and movement, awesome crux, and stellar views are hard to beat. Climb above the anchors and top out for the full experience. Apr 4, 2016