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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 3. Second Buttress
Schneezal
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 147
votes
Routes in 3. Second Buttress
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Bull Schneezal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bullocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ferrovieri S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Frog Hunt S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Girl in the Hornet's Nest S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gurundi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heavy Bigos Lover S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ikar Lost S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kenny Said So T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kimba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Load S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Madmen Rule the World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Minotaur S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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O'Zgrozo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Banana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pistol Whip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rat Trap, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Red Bull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rodent's Party S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Salad Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Schneezal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spaghetti Blues S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Transfat S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Two Eggs and Two Martinis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unload S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zombia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14295, -80.91755 |
| FA: | Doug Reed 1996 |
| Page Views: | 5,161 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Oct 4, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This is a great long route! Start by climbing up and make some techy moves to reach excellent holds under the overhang. From here, score a bomber hand jam at the base of the crack in the overhang, find some feet out right, and work your way up the crack aiming for an awesome pocket out left (crux). After pulling the roof, continue up vertical face following a few crack systems. The wall will begin to get slightly overhung and then go back to low angle. As the route turns from overhung to slabby, the holds get a bit slopey. When you get to the top, be sure to look around and enjoy the nice view upstream of the 4th buttress. This route will use every bit of a 60M rope.
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