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Routes in 3. Second Buttress

Bull Schneezal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bullocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frog Hunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Lichen It S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Ikar Lost S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Load S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Madmen Rule the World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Minotaur S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Banana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pistol Whip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Bull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rodent's Party S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Schneezal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jim Woodruff?
Page Views: 114 total · 15/month
Shared By: Gummy on Apr 2, 2018
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

There are a few cryptic movements down low getting into the dihedral as well as getting out of it. There is also a crux on the head wall that will test some old school power.

Location

The route is climbers left of Pistol Whip, and starts beneath a distinct dihedral. Finish up the roof anchors up above.

Protection

7 bolts bolt anchor

Photos

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Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Definitely felt like a Jim Woodruff route.
Way more interesting and burlier than the neighbor pistol grip.
Trad moves and some "interesting" dihedral technique down low, lead to a nice slabby bulge.and a squatting break below the roofs. Get ready for some old school power blatting, and jug tugging.
At the last clip, keep your head screwed on from the pump, and choose the right path. Jul 2, 2018

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