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Routes in Second Buttress

Bull Schneezal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bullocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frog Hunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Lichen It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ikar Lost S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Load S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Madmen Rule the World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Banana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pistol Whip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Bull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rodent's Party S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Schneezal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Rudaw Janowic
Page Views: 294 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jeff Dunbar on Sep 1, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start inside the tunnel formed by the massive leaning block and climb out the right side of the tunnel to the face above. After clipping a few bolts in the first 30 feet or so, you will have the option to step off the main wall onto the top of the massive leaning block for a no-hands rest (or a nap, or a picnic) at mid height. You can clip another bolt from here too. To finish, follow the bolt line up on good holds through the overhangs above.

Location

Far right side of the tunnel, 15 feet left of the start for Bullocks (5.9).

Protection

8 bolts, with a standard sport anchor.

Photos

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Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
 
Cody Goldberg   Lakewood, Colorado
 
Super cool climb, would say closer to 10a/b, though crux is significantly humbling for inexperienced hand jammers (like me) when humid, so I suppoe the c is warranted. May 31, 2016
I would agree with the stars and the rating. I thought this climb was kind of a nightmare. Oct 12, 2015
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
The New River Rock Vol 2 guidebook gives this one a 10c rating with only two stars, but this climb felt softer and more fun than that. Maybe the 10c rating assumes no stepping off the main wall onto the top of the huge block at mid height? Sep 1, 2015