Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Upper Meadow

0. Zero Buttress 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
1. First Buttress 2 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
2. Shaved Box Canyon 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
3. Second Buttress 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
4. Third Buttress 3 / 35 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38
5. Fourth Buttress 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
6. Cambodia 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

Amazing sport routes extending up the north side of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

97 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Upper Meadow Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 66
Berecik
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
Bullocks
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 63
King Lichen Me
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 83
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 150
Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
Mr. Cute
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 65
Supermoon
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 122
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 49
Vanished
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 75
Skull In Hole
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 102
Starry
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 35
Lamda
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 30
Creature
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Berecik 0. Zero Buttress
 66
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bullocks 3. Second Buttress
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
King Lichen Me 4. Third Buttress
 63
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Floaters 1. First Buttress
 83
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross Eyed and Blind 1. First Buttress
 150
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mr. Cute 4. Third Buttress
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Supermoon 4. Third Buttress
 65
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream 4. Third Buttress
 122
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Vanished 4. Third Buttress
 49
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Push 1. First Buttress
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal 3. Second Buttress
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skull In Hole 4. Third Buttress
 75
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry 4. Third Buttress
 102
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lamda 1. First Buttress
 35
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Creature 1. First Buttress
 30
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Meadow »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Pnelson    
Climbers and kayakers sometimes park on the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the bridge. On busy weekends, there can easily be two dozen vehicles here. DO NOT PARK past the sign that says, wait for it, NO PARKING. This sign exists to allow emergency vehicle access to the Lower Meadow, and the local law enforcement is getting sick of it being blocked. May 23, 2017

More About Upper Meadow

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (2)

All Photos Within Upper Meadow (64)

Most Popular · Newest · Random