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Areas in Upper Meadow

Cambodia 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
First Buttress 2 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Fourth Buttress 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Second Buttress 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Shaved Box Canyon 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Third Buttress 3 / 34 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37
Zero Buttress 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Elevation: 1,650 ft
GPS: 38.15, -80.927 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
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Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

Amazing sport routes extending up the north side of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.
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Getting There

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Berecik
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lichen Me
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Cute
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supermoon
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vanished
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skull In Hole
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starry
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The Prow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lamda
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Creature
Sport
Berecik Zero Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
King Lichen Me Third Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Floaters First Buttress 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross Eyed and Blind First Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mr. Cute Third Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Supermoon Third Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream Third Buttress 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Vanished Third Buttress 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Push First Buttress 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal Second Buttress 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skull In Hole Third Buttress 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry Third Buttress 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Prow Third Buttress 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Lamda First Buttress 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Creature First Buttress 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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Pnelson    
Climbers and kayakers sometimes park on the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the bridge. On busy weekends, there can easily be two dozen vehicles here. DO NOT PARK past the sign that says, wait for it, NO PARKING. This sign exists to allow emergency vehicle access to the Lower Meadow, and the local law enforcement is getting sick of it being blocked. May 23, 2017

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