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Elevation: 1,925 ft
GPS: 38.14361, -80.91678
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Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change


Amazing sport routes extending up the north side of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Getting There Suggest change

***NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.  THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL*** 

The following driving directions are described from Fayetteville, after crossing the Meadow River Bridge, as you drive north from Fayetteville, take the first left onto Underwood Rd and then turn left again onto Dietz Road. A small gravel lot is available for parking, though it will only hold about 20 vehicles. Please park conservatively, choose to carpool, and arrive early for weekend access. 

From the gravel lot, continue hiking uphill on Dietz Road (approximately 100 yards) and turn left on an apparent ATV trail. Do not ever block this trail with your vehicle lest you draw the ire of locals who use this access for their recreation as well.  Follow this trail for 5-10 minutes as it trends gently downhill through the forest. When the path splits, a narrow wooded trail on your right will lead to the ultra-popular cliff-top bouldering known as Meadow Top; but the widest downhill trail leads to Lower Meadow climbing.  

Follow the Lower Meadow downhill trail, look for a trail splitting off left.  This trail leads back to the highway and the 'original' path leading to Upper Meadow.  Once you've arrived at the bridge/grassy area, look for another trail that dips steeply below the bridge.  This path travels along a rocky creekbed and ends up at river elevation.  From here, all of the Upper Meadow Buttresses are accessed from this old jeep trail.  Travel time from river level to crag is between 5-20 minutes.  

132 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 235
Ferrovieri
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 201
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 328
Cross-Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 323
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 109
Vanished
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 110
Pistol Whip
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 136
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 119
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 246
Starry
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 49
First, Last, and Always
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 74
Lamda
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Elliott
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 78
Creature
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
Corner Pocket
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 69
Eye of Mordor
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ferrovieri 3. Second Buttress
 235
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Floaters 1. First Buttress
 201
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross-Eyed and Blind 1. First Buttress
 328
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream 4. Third Buttress
 323
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Vanished 4. Third Buttress
 109
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pistol Whip 3. Second Buttress
 110
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Push 1. First Buttress
 136
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal 3. Second Buttress
 119
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry 4. Third Buttress
 246
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
First, Last, and Always 4. Third Buttress
 49
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lamda 1. First Buttress
 74
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Elliott 6. Cambodia
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Creature 1. First Buttress
 78
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Corner Pocket 1. First Buttress
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Eye of Mordor 1. First Buttress
 69
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Meadow »

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