Elevation: 1,925 ft
GPS: 38.144, -80.917 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 189,955 total · 2,067/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

Amazing sport routes extending up the north side of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There

Park along Hwy 19 South just as you would for the Lower Meadow. Follow the obvious ATV trail paralleling the highway until you are beneath the highway bridge. Walk upstream, under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

115 Total Climbs

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Location: Upper Meadow Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 97
Ferrovieri
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 119
Berecik
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 109
King Lichen Me
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
Lady Punk
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 136
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 230
Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 122
Mr. Cute
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 103
Supermoon
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 210
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 72
Meathead
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 77
Vanished
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 102
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 69
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 107
Skull In Hole
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 160
Starry
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ferrovieri 3. Second Buttress
 97
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Berecik 0. Zero Buttress
 119
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
King Lichen Me 4. Third Buttress
 109
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lady Punk 1. First Buttress
 79
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Floaters 1. First Buttress
 136
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross Eyed and Blind 1. First Buttress
 230
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mr. Cute 4. Third Buttress
 122
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Supermoon 4. Third Buttress
 103
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream 4. Third Buttress
 210
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Meathead 4. Third Buttress
 72
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Vanished 4. Third Buttress
 77
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Push 1. First Buttress
 102
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal 3. Second Buttress
 69
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skull In Hole 4. Third Buttress
 107
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry 4. Third Buttress
 160
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Meadow »

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