Elevation: 1,925 ft
GPS: 38.144, -80.917 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,727 total · 1,330/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

Amazing sport routes extending up the north side of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

97 Total Climbs

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Location: Upper Meadow Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
Berecik
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
Bullocks
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Girl Boner
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
King Lichen Me
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 86
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 155
Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 84
Mr. Cute
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 66
Supermoon
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 128
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 50
Vanished
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 66
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 79
Skull In Hole
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 107
Starry
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 39
Lamda
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Berecik 0. Zero Buttress
 68
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bullocks 3. Second Buttress
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Girl Boner 0. Zero Buttress
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
King Lichen Me 4. Third Buttress
 70
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Floaters 1. First Buttress
 86
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross Eyed and Blind 1. First Buttress
 155
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mr. Cute 4. Third Buttress
 84
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Supermoon 4. Third Buttress
 66
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream 4. Third Buttress
 128
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Vanished 4. Third Buttress
 50
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Push 1. First Buttress
 66
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal 3. Second Buttress
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skull In Hole 4. Third Buttress
 79
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry 4. Third Buttress
 107
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lamda 1. First Buttress
 39
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Pnelson    
Climbers and kayakers sometimes park on the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the bridge. On busy weekends, there can easily be two dozen vehicles here. DO NOT PARK past the sign that says, wait for it, NO PARKING. This sign exists to allow emergency vehicle access to the Lower Meadow, and the local law enforcement is getting sick of it being blocked. May 23, 2017