Elevation: 1,925 ft
GPS: 38.144, -80.917 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 140,156 total · 1,736/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

Amazing sport routes extending up the north side of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

108 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Upper Meadow Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 59
I'm Lichen It
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 95
Berecik
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
Girl Boner
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 85
King Lichen Me
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 120
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 205
Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 111
Mr. Cute
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 81
Supermoon
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 170
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 66
Meathead
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 64
Vanished
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Push
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 58
Schneezal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 91
Skull In Hole
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 137
Starry
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
I'm Lichen It 3. Second Buttress
 59
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Berecik 0. Zero Buttress
 95
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Girl Boner 0. Zero Buttress
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
King Lichen Me 4. Third Buttress
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Floaters 1. First Buttress
 120
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross Eyed and Blind 1. First Buttress
 205
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mr. Cute 4. Third Buttress
 111
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Supermoon 4. Third Buttress
 81
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream 4. Third Buttress
 170
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Meathead 4. Third Buttress
 66
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Vanished 4. Third Buttress
 64
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Push 1. First Buttress
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schneezal 3. Second Buttress
 58
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skull In Hole 4. Third Buttress
 91
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry 4. Third Buttress
 137
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Meadow »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos