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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Eye of Mordor
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.7 from 87
votes
Early Access
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Codebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gliding Whatever S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14319, -80.91967 |
| FA: | Joel Brady 2003. Equipper Doug Reed 1996 |
| Page Views: | 9,720 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Nov 7, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Closed
Details
The Meadow River is almost entirely private property and mostly CLOSED to climbing, EXCEPT Lower Meadow routes and boulders and Meadow Top boulders. The only public land, part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, is far downstream and has no good access without crossing over closed private property.
Description
Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.
I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.
After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.
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