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Routes in First Buttress

Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cross Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Joel Brady
Page Views: 1,963 total, 27/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 7, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.

I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.

After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.

Location

right of Corner Pocket

Protection

13 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
 
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
 
Replaced the sketchy biner in question with a nice wiregate. All the others opened/closed fine so I didn't replace anything further. Sep 15, 2017
Jacob Sustrich
  5.12d
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.12d
The biner on the 7th perma is in bad shape - the gate is near impossible to open and stays completely open if you don't manually close it. I tried to replace it but it's ziptied to the chains. If you're feeling charitable, take up something to chop the ties and donate a new biner. Otherwise just be ready for a gnarly clip. Sep 5, 2017
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Those biners have seen constant swapping through the season - a testament to the quality and now popularity. Some steel biners have been replaced with fresher aluminum, but on a busy weekend, this route gets red river traffic. If projecting, not a bad idea to donate a bit of fresh (And well installed) hardware behind. Aug 22, 2017
When pulling the rope at the end of the day on Friday (8/18), somehow, someway, the 10th carabiner came off the chain... We managed to find it in the woods and place it at the base of the climb with a message etched into a rock ("From Bolt #10").

Also, the 9th chains carabiner (I believe the 2nd draw after the no-hands) gate was nearly stuck in place. I plan to replace it with a better biner next time I get on the route, just wanted to give a heads up for the next guy/gal... Aug 21, 2017