Avg: 3.6 from 44 votes
|Type:||Sport, 110 ft (33 m)|
|Page Views:||6,598 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||camhead on Nov 7, 2011|
|Admins:||Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson, Pat Goodman|
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.
After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.