Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Joel Brady
Page Views: 2,864 total · 32/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 7, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.

I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.

After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.

Location

right of Corner Pocket

Protection

13 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

When pulling the rope at the end of the day on Friday (8/18), somehow, someway, the 10th carabiner came off the chain... We managed to find it in the woods and place it at the base of the climb with a message etched into a rock ("From Bolt #10").

Also, the 9th chains carabiner (I believe the 2nd draw after the no-hands) gate was nearly stuck in place. I plan to replace it with a better biner next time I get on the route, just wanted to give a heads up for the next guy/gal... Aug 21, 2017
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Those biners have seen constant swapping through the season - a testament to the quality and now popularity. Some steel biners have been replaced with fresher aluminum, but on a busy weekend, this route gets red river traffic. If projecting, not a bad idea to donate a bit of fresh (And well installed) hardware behind. Aug 22, 2017
Jacob Sustrich
  5.12d
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.12d
The biner on the 7th perma is in bad shape - the gate is near impossible to open and stays completely open if you don't manually close it. I tried to replace it but it's ziptied to the chains. If you're feeling charitable, take up something to chop the ties and donate a new biner. Otherwise just be ready for a gnarly clip. Sep 5, 2017
Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
  5.13a
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
  5.13a
Replaced the sketchy biner in question with a nice wiregate. All the others opened/closed fine so I didn't replace anything further. Sep 15, 2017
Kyle Harmon-Townsend
Asheville, NC
  5.13a
Kyle Harmon-Townsend   Asheville, NC
  5.13a
I found the dihedral crux to be strenuous and height-dependent. A tall enough person could just reach straight to the fingerlock with relative ease, and a very short person could hand-foot match the glued jug. Phenomenal route on perfect stone with brilliant exposure and wall position up high. Apr 9, 2019