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All Locations >
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Push
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 170
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Codebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gliding Whatever S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14319, -80.91967 |
| FA: | Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon 1996 |
| Page Views: | 8,536 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Sep 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Closed
Details
The Meadow River is almost entirely private property and mostly CLOSED to climbing, EXCEPT Lower Meadow routes and boulders and Meadow Top boulders. The only public land, part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, is far downstream and has no good access without crossing over closed private property.
Description
This route is classic! It's worth coming to this crag for this route alone! Start by climbing up a blocky section of rock to reach the first bolt. From here, climb straight up making some tricky moves to reach the obvious hueco at the 4th bolt. Next, make a traverse right for about 6 feet to reach a vertical seam and eventually a really good stance. Continue up and then make a long easy traverse back left to clip the 5th bolt. It looks a bit run out, but it's a clean fall and the hardest moves are still fairly close to the 4th bolt. From the 5th bolt climb up and a bit right heading for the final overhang. Pull the overhang and hang in there for the redpoint crux at the last bolt.
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