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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Boomerang
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3 from 11
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cross Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson 2004 |
| Page Views: | 3,466 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Mar 17, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This route shares its first five bolts with 'Push' before diverging slightly right and heading through the hanging dihedral. The first five bolts of the route head through smooth white stone. Expect nice horizontal ledges, sloping crimps and a beach ball sized pod. This intro section is followed by a no hands rest on a giant ledge.
The second half of the route is a little steeper. Negotiate some long reaches between positive crimps to reach a large roof. Rest up at this point and then bring your lockoff strength for the technical crux. A redpoint crux awaits you in the dihedral. Grab the glue-merang hold, get aggro for a move or two, and then tech your way up the rest of the dihedral.
Don't cheat yourself out by climbing up the juggy crack to the right of the bolts.
The second half of the route is a little steeper. Negotiate some long reaches between positive crimps to reach a large roof. Rest up at this point and then bring your lockoff strength for the technical crux. A redpoint crux awaits you in the dihedral. Grab the glue-merang hold, get aggro for a move or two, and then tech your way up the rest of the dihedral.
Don't cheat yourself out by climbing up the juggy crack to the right of the bolts.
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