Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 1,877 total · 20/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 17, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route shares its first five bolts with 'Push' before diverging slightly right and heading through the hanging dihedral. The first five bolts of the route head through smooth white stone. Expect nice horizontal ledges, sloping crimps and a beach ball sized pod. This intro section is followed by a no hands rest on a giant ledge.

The second half of the route is a little steeper. Negotiate some long reaches between positive crimps to reach a large roof. Rest up at this point and then bring your lockoff strength for the technical crux. A redpoint crux awaits you in the dihedral. Grab the glue-merang hold, get aggro for a move or two, and then tech your way up the rest of the dihedral.

Don't cheat yourself out by climbing up the juggy crack to the right of the bolts.

Location

This is the first route you encounter when approaching the first buttress. Look for the large hueco around the third or fourth bolt.

Protection

11 bolts plus fixed biner anchor. A long sling on the first bolt in the hanging dihedral is a good idea and stick clip the second bolt.

Photos

Fun route but contrived. You can clip bolts from the crack and jugs are within easy reach of the 'proper' line. Anyone not reading the guidebook or MP would use the crack without a second thought. Harder than the neighboring 13a's if you don't use the crack, but probably easier than them if you do. Like many 12+/13- routes at the Meadow, the crux is blatantly manufactured but the sequence is very cool. Aug 10, 2018