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All Locations >
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Ben Dunne
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 76
votes
Early Access
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Codebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gliding Whatever S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14319, -80.91967 |
| FA: | Blaze Davies 1989 |
| Page Views: | 3,422 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Seth Derr on Oct 11, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Closed
Details
The Meadow River is almost entirely private property and mostly CLOSED to climbing, EXCEPT Lower Meadow routes and boulders and Meadow Top boulders. The only public land, part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, is far downstream and has no good access without crossing over closed private property.
Description
This route sits directly to the climber's right of Floaters at First Buttress. Blocky start leads to a fun seam. Follow the seam through a roof, then on to easier ground above. If you happen to drag a light rack down to the meadow this is definitely worth doing. Protects well with C4's and nuts
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