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Routes in First Buttress

Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cross Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 260 total, 4/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 4, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Toymaker differs a little in character from its neighboring 13a's. Instead of being an endurance challenge like the others, it features a single fierce boulder problem at 2/3 height.

Begin by climbing a steep section to the first bolt. After the first bolt negotiate an off width while stemming through a dihedral. Traverse 10 feet to avoid an impossible roof and then get ready for some straight forward climbing. For the next 15 feet the rock is steep and the holds alternate from square cut edges to slopers.

A really good rest awaits you before the crux boulder problem. The crux sequence is five moves long and culminates with a massive lunge to a good edge. A few more long reaches take you to a rest. The route finishes with a couple long lock offs between small crimps.

Often times a stream of water runs down the wall past the second bolt. Don't let this deter you from trying the route. Your rope will stay dry and you don't need to use any of the wet foot holds.

I avoided getting on this route because I thought the third bolt might have been missing. It is there, look hard and you'll see it camouflaged in the roof.

Location

This route separates the long endurance routes on the left side from the short steep routes on the right side. Look for the starting off width/stem corner.

Protection

10 bolts + anchor

Photos

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