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Routes in First Buttress

Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cross Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Craig Lewis
Page Views: 2,550 total, 36/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 18, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Creature could possibly be the finest route at the first buttress. It sits unassumingly around the left side of the buttress, hidden in the shadows of the more prominent routes on the front side. Its west facing orientation keeps it shady until early in the afternoon.

The main business of the route starts above a ledge 20 feet off the ground. If you are feeling bold, or just want to impress someone, climb straight up a finger crack to the ledge. Otherwise scramble up the left side of the buttress and walk across the ledge to the start of the route.

Take care executing the intro moves because a fall would probably land you on the ledge. A technical move awaits you immediately after clipping the first bolt. The next couple bolts worth of climbing is easier, and takes you to the perplexing intro moves to the crux. Do a couple insecure lie back moves and then fall right into a big block. Falling slightly backwards and slapping the big block, while in the iron cross position, is definitely one of the more memorable moves at the Gorge.

The hardest moves come right after the fourth bolt. There are two distinct options here; either dyno or use another set of holds to make a long lock off move. Fun lie backing on good holds is your reward for completing the crux.

Location

First route around the corner from the main face of the buttress.

Protection

6 bolts + anchor

Photos

Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
 
Le Bob   Lakewood,CO
 
Agreed! A little gear action in the beginning makes this route a full-fledged fun fest! Oct 7, 2016
Neal Poorman  
 
I'd like to note that the optional finger crack start climbs and protects well, it is the better way to start the climb in my opinion. (Bring a few finger sized cams and mid sized stoppers). I am about 5' 2" and just sent this route today. At the 4th bolt going straight up is a big dyno (possible for someone my height but huge). It is a big span but its possible to head right even with my T-rex arms. Absolutely one of the best routes i have ever done. Feb 23, 2014