Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Craig Lewis
Page Views: 3,036 total · 35/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 18, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Creature could possibly be the finest route at the first buttress. It sits unassumingly around the left side of the buttress, hidden in the shadows of the more prominent routes on the front side. Its west facing orientation keeps it shady until early in the afternoon.

Climb a finger crack to a ledge 20 feet off the ground.  Take care executing the next moves because a fall would probably land you on the ledge. A technical move awaits you immediately after clipping the first bolt. The next couple bolts worth of climbing is easier, and takes you to the perplexing intro moves to the crux. Do a couple insecure lie back moves and then fall right into a big block. Falling slightly backwards and slapping the big block, while in the iron cross position, is definitely one of the more memorable moves at the Gorge.

The hardest moves come right after the fourth bolt. There are two distinct options here; either dyno or use another set of holds to make a long lock off move. Fun lie backing on good holds is your reward for completing the crux.

Location

First route around the corner from the main face of the buttress.

Protection

6 bolts + anchor

Photos

Neal Poorman  
 
I'd like to note that the optional finger crack start climbs and protects well, it is the better way to start the climb in my opinion. (Bring a few finger sized cams and mid sized stoppers). I am about 5' 2" and just sent this route today. At the 4th bolt going straight up is a big dyno (possible for someone my height but huge). It is a big span but its possible to head right even with my T-rex arms. Absolutely one of the best routes i have ever done. Feb 23, 2014
Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
 
Le Bob   Lakewood,CO
 
Agreed! A little gear action in the beginning makes this route a full-fledged fun fest! Oct 7, 2016
Nic Cornejo
Durham
  5.12c
Nic Cornejo   Durham
  5.12c
There is a bolt protecting the bottom finger crack, which makes it easy to stick clip. Definitely worth doing the bottom section. This does mean you'll need 7 draws + anchors for the whole route. May 21, 2018
Dom Serino
Baltimore MD
Dom Serino   Baltimore MD
Many of the bolts and hangers are rusty and corroding. I bailed at the crux because the hanger protecting that section was particularly suspect. Apr 8, 2019