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All Locations >
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Superman
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.2 from 23
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Codebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gliding Whatever S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14319, -80.91967 |
| FA: | Lee Munson |
| Page Views: | 1,794 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Closed
Details
The Meadow River is almost entirely private property and mostly CLOSED to climbing, EXCEPT Lower Meadow routes and boulders and Meadow Top boulders. The only public land, part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, is far downstream and has no good access without crossing over closed private property.
Description
Start by climbing up to reach a shallow undercling flake and then a good horizontal seam to reach the first bolt. Use some poor holds to pull the lip of the overhang aiming for a jug at the 2nd bolt (crux). From here, make a deadpoint left, and clip the 3rd bolt. From here to the end, the climbing starts to ease up.
Note: Pay attention to where the belayer stands for the start. It is difficult to find a position so that you don't climb under the first stick clipped bolt without getting the rope twisted backward as you pull the lip.
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