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Routes in First Buttress

Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cross Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bentley Brackett 2003
Page Views: 619 total, 9/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Typical Situation is another one of the neglected routes around the left side of the buttress. This seldom done route features top quality white sandstone with just the right amount of edges to make it possible.

Breeze through the first three bolts on crisp edges. Take your last breath before entering a powerful, tenuous crux. If you exhale you could compromise your core tension and be sent sailing! After making an extremely powerful deadpoint to a vertical slot paw desperately to find a hidden foot hold. An 18 inch tick mark won’t save you here. It’s probably best to let your belayer verbally guide you toward the foot hold. Slap desperately and move quickly past the fourth bolt. A series of thrilling highstep and backstep foot movements take you to jugs in the roof.

Traverse 10 feet to the left and execute the redpoint crux around the roof. Campus through on jugs to get your feet established on the finishing face. Don’t forget that all routes at the NRG end at the top of the cliff, whether it means climbing through lichen, a waterfall, or spider webs as thick as fishing line. With that said enjoy twenty feet of 5.8 adventure climbing to the chains.

Location

Starts atop a ledge on the left side of the buttress. Second route from the left since the new addition of arete route on left.

Protection

7 Bolts + anchor

Photos

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