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Routes in First Buttress

Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cross Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Todd Offenbacher, Eddie Begoon late 80s
Page Views: 2,076 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is yet another great climb at the First Buttress. Start by climbing up very easy blocky ledges to a large ledge where to you can clip the first bolt. From here, climb the short face using very positive horizontals to mantle up to a stance. (place a cam after the mantle if you like). The easiest way to access the arete is to climb around the left side of the small overhang and traverse back to the right on a large ledge. After you clip the bolt, climb up on the left side of the arete to gain the next bolt. The crux is the section leading toward and away from the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt, head around the right side of the arete and stay on that side to the top.

Location

This is the obvious orange arete on the left side of the crag.

Protection

7 bolts, (a small cam with a long runner can be placed between the first and second bolt). It's not necessary though, even with the gear, you would not want to take the fall and it's very easy terrain. cam size: .5-1" shuts at top.

Photos

Katie Hughes  
 
The easy terrain between the 1st and 2nd bolt is much easier and well protected if you go left rather than right. Bring a bit of gear and it's completely safe. Sep 5, 2016
Aaron McCartney
Akron, OH
  5.10b/c
Aaron McCartney   Akron, OH
  5.10b/c
There is now an additional bolt between what used to be the first and second. Jul 31, 2017
Wesley
Morgantown WV
 
Wesley   Morgantown WV
 
Is this rating still accurate? I want to claim a 10d. The next sport route to the right sent me on a big fall or, and seemed much harder. Nov 9, 2017

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