Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Todd Offenbacher, Eddie Begoon late 80s
Page Views: 2,287 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is yet another great climb at the First Buttress. Start by climbing up very easy blocky ledges to a large ledge where to you can clip the first bolt. From here, climb the short face using very positive horizontals to mantle up to a stance. (place a cam after the mantle if you like). The easiest way to access the arete is to climb around the left side of the small overhang and traverse back to the right on a large ledge. After you clip the bolt, climb up on the left side of the arete to gain the next bolt. The crux is the section leading toward and away from the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt, head around the right side of the arete and stay on that side to the top.

Location

This is the obvious orange arete on the left side of the crag.

Protection

7 bolts, (a small cam with a long runner can be placed between the first and second bolt). It's not necessary though, even with the gear, you would not want to take the fall and it's very easy terrain. cam size: .5-1" shuts at top.

Photos

Katie Hughes  
 
The easy terrain between the 1st and 2nd bolt is much easier and well protected if you go left rather than right. Bring a bit of gear and it's completely safe. Sep 5, 2016
Aaron McCartney
Akron, OH
  5.10b/c
Aaron McCartney   Akron, OH
  5.10b/c
There is now an additional bolt between what used to be the first and second. Jul 31, 2017
Wesley
Morgantown WV
  5.10a
Wesley   Morgantown WV
  5.10a
This is one of the most fun climbs I've ever done. I'd put it in my top 5, actually. There are no hard moves, but it requires some commitment and feels exposed, especially the mantle up high before you traverse back to the right side of the arete.

I'd give it a solid 10a, but you might convince me of 10b because of the mantle. I think it only gets the 10d rating because it scares people, not because it's hard. Sep 21, 2018