Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon
Page Views: 4,903 total · 42/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


158 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route makes a nice warm up for many of the other harder lines at this cliff and it's a great climb. Start is the same as for Lambda but at the first bolt head left and continue to diagonal up and left. Use a long runner when clipping the first bolt on Lambda to reduce the rope drag. The entire climb involves making long reaches to really positive horizontals, many of these horizontals offer great hand jams for rests. Continue to a large ledge under the upper overhanging headwall.

Location

Locate the obvious orange Arete (Floaters, 5.10d). This climb is the second bolted line to the right from Floaters. (There's a mixed line between Floaters and Cross Eyed and Blind that is not in the Cater Guide, 3rd edition).

Protection

8 bolts, shuts

Photos

Jacob Sustrich
  5.11a
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.11a
Awesome climb, big moves on pretty good holds for the most part (only like two crimps on the entire route). Pumped me out so I hung my way up it. Looking forward to hopping back on soon and sending. Felt like an 11a to me, but I'm not the best when it comes to big/dynamic movements. May 26, 2015
Joe Whittlesey
Durham, NC
 
Joe Whittlesey   Durham, NC
 
Great climb overall. Good climb for new to 5.11 climbers. big moves, but good holds. Really high first bolt, but 5.7 climbing up to it. Nov 8, 2016
ChrisHau
Hanover, NH
ChrisHau   Hanover, NH
Many thanks to Jim Woodruff for his rebolting work, on this and many other climbs. Word on the street is that this climb is now much easier to hang for shorties. Jun 26, 2017
Scott K
  5.11d
Scott K  
  5.11d
Got on this route in March 2019. It seems like a hold has broken off in the crux, this is the most sandbagged 11a I've ever seen. The crux is now a huge move off of a terrible crimp on nothing feet. Probably a V5/V6 boulder problem. Everyone else we talked to who went up that weekend agreed. Mar 11, 2019
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
 
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
 
Scott, looking at my notes from 2015 I'm not sure anything has broken recently. Does what I have below make sense compared to what you saw recently? Yes, you have to pull on some crimps but it wasn't a V5/V6 move.

"I got the LH sidepull and it didn't feel good at all. I moved my body to the right a little and it felt better and my fingers slotted in a little better. I got the first crimp and worked my RF up onto the jug block. I could then get a kneebar and could easily reach the second crimp. From here I threw for what I thought was a jug. I stuck it but it wasn't a jug." Mar 11, 2019
Scott K
  5.11d
Scott K  
  5.11d
Steve, I may have just missed some crucial holds but there was no knee bar I could find. RF Heel hook onto that jug block, sketchy left foot and then had to throw off of a slopey right hand crimp to that not a jug. Mar 25, 2019