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Routes in First Buttress

Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cross Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of Mordor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lady Punk S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This area is popular when it's raining....and when it's not. There are some very high quality routes here and if you're not content with these, it's only a short walk to the 2nd or 3rd buttress along the cliff.

Getting There

The parking is the same for the Main Meadow area (pull off at the top of Underwood Road). From the pull off, hike down the ATV trail, heading left when the first option presents itself as rock begins to appear on the right. Follow this down to the bottom of the hill until you reach the old railroad bed. (If you make a left too early, it's OK, just follow another ATV trail that runs parallel to Route 19 and go under the bridge to reach the old railbed). Once you reach the river, head left, east of Route 19 along the railbed that runs along the Meadow River. Follow this for about 10-15 minutes from this point and keep an eye out for cairns on the left at a small path. Follow this path up the hill until you reach the cliff. The path should lead you directly to Push. If you miss the path you will notice a creepy looking shack on the right side of the old railbed that's covered in orange spray paint. If you see this, turn back or continue a short distance until you locate another set of cairns on the left at a path. This path will lead you to the 3rd buttress. You can walk left along the cliff to access the 2nd and 1st buttress.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Ben Dunne
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Lady Punk
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
You, Watch the Clocks!
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 73
Floaters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 138
Cross Eyed and Blind
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Sausage
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Andoullie
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 57
Push
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 37
Lamda
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Black Crack
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 23
Creature
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
Eye of Mordor
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Boomerang
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Corner Pocket
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ben Dunne
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lady Punk
 38
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
You, Watch the Clocks!
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Floaters
 73
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cross Eyed and Blind
 138
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sausage
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Andoullie
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Push
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lamda
 37
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Black Crack
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Creature
 23
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Eye of Mordor
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Boomerang
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Corner Pocket
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in First Buttress »

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