PRINT: Rock Climb Ben Dunne, The New River Gorge Region

Ben Dunne

5.10a, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 69 votes
FA: Blaze Davies
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 1. First Buttress

Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

**NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.

THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***

Description

This route sits directly to the climber's right of Floaters at First Buttress. Blocky start leads to a fun seam. Follow the seam through a roof, then on to easier ground above. If you happen to drag a light rack down to the meadow this is definitely worth doing. Protects well with C4's and nuts

Location

Finger crack / Corner next to Floaters

Protection

Bolt Anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben dunne

Start to Ben Dunne and Lady Punk.

So much pro!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eugenel Espiritu
Pennsylvania

5.10a

Lower portion didn’t seem to protect well with a standard rack. Needed more small gear. Fairly easy but wanted a piece that felt secure within the first thirty feet. Sep 24, 2018

Wesley Neill
Tucson, AZ

5.10a

Fun climb that is reasonably protected after the first 30 feet. There isn't much down low that I could find. A couple iffy nut placements and maybe some shallow horizontals. Nov 27, 2018

Austin D

5.9

I used the first bolt from Lady Punk to protect the lower section Sep 8, 2020

Bob Johnson
Philadelphia, PA

Gear in the first 30 ft is bomber. You can place a variety of hand-sized cams in the wide crack 15 ft up followed by a finger-sized cam in the horizontal above that. Then a 0.2-sized cam in curving flake/crack right below roof. Fun climb. Definitely worth doing! May 21, 2023

John McKinney
Asheville, NC

Beware of a wasp nest above the first roof. Was active as of July 16th Aug 22, 2023