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Routes in Third Buttress

Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Sexgiving S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joli goes to zermont S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moselstra├če S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pondel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermoon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 1,232 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 20, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start by climbing the steep crack system until you're just below the large roof. Follow the thin holds out and left aiming for the left corner of the roof (crux). Pull up left into a small corner and then head up and right using good holds to reach a stance above the large roof. From here, the climbing eases up, but you still have another 30 feet or so of climbing to reach the anchors. Very sustained.

Location

To locate this route from the approach trail. First locate Meathead, 5.11c or Starry, 5.12b, they are right at the point where the trail meets the cliff. Walk right along the cliff until you come to a broken crack system that leads to a roof (approximately 25 yards). This route follows the line of bolts next to the crack.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

David Kalal  
 
Thank you to whomever placed the beautiful new anchors! Great route! May 29, 2017
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
I completely agree with you on this and this is on my list to rebolt. Everything else out there is fairly new and done by people that aren't part of the main NRG rebolting community. May 26, 2015
AlexandreK
  5.11c
AlexandreK  
  5.11c
Fantastic climb, could really use some new hardware, or at least new anchors. The ancient small eyelets up top aren't too confidence inspiring, and are a pain to work with. Strange to see since this route is a classic...and everything around it has bright shiny new stainless hardware, and even shuts. May 25, 2015