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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
Vanished
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 135
votes
Routes in 4. Third Buttress
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17 Chicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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17 Chicks underpants V4-5 6B+ |
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Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Antofil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Baron Von Sauerkraut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Beer Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Boffedes V6 7A |
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Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gary's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Flying T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kurt Albert Gedächtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Meatball (aka. Mr. Ugly aka. Coloring Book) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minatori S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moselstraße 7 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rocambole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tita S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14336, -80.91556 |
| FA: | Doug Reed 1996 |
| Page Views: | 3,964 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Jul 20, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property - Access Closed
Details
The Meadow River is almost entirely private property and mostly CLOSED to climbing, EXCEPT Lower Meadow routes and boulders and Meadow Top boulders. The only public land, part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, is far downstream and has no good access without crossing over closed private property.
Description
Start by climbing the steep crack system until you're just below the large roof. Follow the thin holds out and left aiming for the left corner of the roof (crux). Pull up left into a small corner and then head up and right using good holds to reach a stance above the large roof. From here, the climbing eases up, but you still have another 30 feet or so of climbing to reach the anchors. Very sustained.
Location
To locate this route from the approach trail. First locate Meathead, 5.11c or Starry, 5.12b, they are right at the point where the trail meets the cliff. Walk right along the cliff until you come to a broken crack system that leads to a roof (approximately 25 yards). This route follows the line of bolts next to the crack.
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