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Shaken Not Stirred
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.1 from 19
votes
Routes in 4. Third Buttress
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17 Chicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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17 Chicks underpants V4-5 6B+ |
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Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Antofil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Baron Von Sauerkraut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Beer Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Boffedes V6 7A |
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Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gary's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Flying T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kurt Albert Gedächtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Meatball (aka. Mr. Ugly aka. Coloring Book) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minatori S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moselstraße 7 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rocambole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tita S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14336, -80.91556 |
| FA: | Jim Patton. Equipper Doug Reed |
| Page Views: | 1,595 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This route justifies the long hike to the third buttress. It climbs a sweeping parabolic wall with no discontinuities. The movement is athletic and thuggish.
Begin by climbing through two bolts of slopey jugs, being sure to use your heels effectively to make the steep angle more manageable. The third bolt is a bit tricky to clip, so it would be to your advantage to pre-hang the draw with a really long stick. The crux is around the third bolt and can be done a couple different ways. Post crux the angle gets more vertical and the climbing eases. One last surprising sequence is encountered a bolt below the chains. Use some strange two finger pockets and a couple small edges before manteling out the final ledge.
The rock on this one is a bit suspect in spots, but the movement makes up for what it lacks in rock quality.
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