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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
Happy Sexgiving
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.9 from 56
votes
Routes in 4. Third Buttress
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Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Boffedes V6 7A |
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Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Coloring Book S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Flying T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moselstraße S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerbar power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Rudaw Janowic, Krzysztof Pondel 11/2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,611 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | David Kider on May 31, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
The moves from the ground up to the second bolt are interesting and the route overhangs a bit. Then the bolts continue straight up the face, but most of the chalk and the holds seem to go far left and then angle back towards the middle again, making the clipping difficult and awkward. After the last bolt the route seems to go straight up the face to a prominent (drilled?) 3 or 4 finger pocket. The final move, a mantle onto the very large ledge at the top feels exposed and is about 10 feet above the last bolt. There's nothing to hold onto on the ledge so it's a pure mantle. Chalk indicates that some people bypass the mantle and just go far left into a broken corner to gain the ledge. Rings on hangers for an anchor at the back of the ledge.
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