All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress

Happy Flying

Name: Happy Flying
Rating: 3.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in 4. Third Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	17 Chicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	17 Chicks underpants V4-5 6B+
	Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Antofil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Baron Von Sauerkraut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Beer Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Boffedes V6 7A
	Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dragon's Tooth S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gary's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Happy Flying T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kurt Albert Gedächtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Meatball (aka. Mr. Ugly aka. Coloring Book) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Minatori S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moselstraße 7 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rocambole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tita S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wanderer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
GPS:	38.14336, -80.91556
FA:	Gokul Gopal and Erika Earley (2023), or else very old skool?
Page Views:	503 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Gokul G on Oct 9, 2023
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Private Property - Access Closed Details

The Meadow River is almost entirely private property and mostly CLOSED to climbing, EXCEPT Lower Meadow routes and boulders and Meadow Top boulders. The only public land, part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, is far downstream and has no good access without crossing over closed private property.

Access Issue: CLICK HERE TO REPORT BAD BOLTS! Details

Description

This is a fun adventure route up the chimney/dihedral inside the grotto on the far left side of Third Buttress. This route lies between River Man and Sheepshank Redemption, but it's back inside the chasm.

Scramble/mantle up the into the gaping gully and belay from the base of the dihedral. You could also belay from just outside/below, but this might make communication harder. Start at a left-facing flake and head up the inside corner from there, popping up into a sun-lit (in the AM) ledge.

Break up the climb and belay here for better comms or continue 25 feet up the low angle hand-crack inside corner to the top. Spiral your way left and up over a spongy moss-covered ledge, do a step-across and scramble 10 feet up to a nice belay tree. Bring up your partner and rappel off the tree, going down the same way you came up.

Super fun three-dimensional climbing!

Location

This route goes up inside the giant cavernous grotto in the far left end of the buttress. Scramble up into the chasm - it's the left facing dihedral that starts at a big left-facing flake. See pictures for more beta.

Protection

Single rack from 0.2 to #4. Optional: second #3 and a couple big stoppers or midsize tricams. 60 m rope will work, 50 m might not make it down from the rappel tree in one shot.