Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 319 total · 6/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Sep 2, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb some flaky rock past the 1st bolt to the 2nd (long sling). Clip the chain on the 3rd bolt from a good jug and boulder out the corner to a good horn. Avoid an X-block (good jug just to the right) and move up past a glued-on block, which makes for an amazing jug, to crimps and a dead-point to the good rail above. Traverse left 3 feet to a stance on the corner. Continue straight up the right line of bolts (do not switch the left bolt line as the guidebook directs) to high anchors.

The upper face has 3 more tricky sections with high-heel hooks, a mantle, and possibly a dead-point. Each section climbs fine, but seems perplexing as you encounter it. Luckily there are good stances in between the tricky sections.

Great adventure climbing! Possibly a thicket of spider webs!

Location

Far right side of 3rd Buttress. First route beyond the large roof with Bittersweet and Shaken, Not Stirred. Chain on 3rd bolt.

Protection

10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Shoulder-length sling on 2nd bolt important for reducing rope drag. Extended draw on 6th or 7th bolt also helps.

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