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> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
Dragon's Tooth
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.1 from 15
votes
Routes in 4. Third Buttress
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Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Beer Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Boffedes V6 7A |
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Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Coloring Book S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moselstraße S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerbar power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson |
| Page Views: | 1,311 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | AndyJohnson on Sep 8, 2015 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This is a very fun climb with plenty of stances and fun moves. Apparently a good candidate for an onsight attempt (don't read below!).
Climb vertical rock with good moves to a good undercling stance at the third bolt. Figure out how to commit to the slab above, being careful not to pull to hard on the hollow flakes below the overlap. Continue up the slab to another undercling stance at the base of a blank section, at bolt 5.
Seek the dragon's tooth, a sharp pocket, and some side pulls to reach a good rail up high. Pull the next easy roof and find the best stance (layback to the right) to clip the 7th bolt. Work your feet up very high, tense your body, and reach for the perfect glued flake in the high roof. Keep the pump together over the final roof and you are at the anchors.
Climb vertical rock with good moves to a good undercling stance at the third bolt. Figure out how to commit to the slab above, being careful not to pull to hard on the hollow flakes below the overlap. Continue up the slab to another undercling stance at the base of a blank section, at bolt 5.
Seek the dragon's tooth, a sharp pocket, and some side pulls to reach a good rail up high. Pull the next easy roof and find the best stance (layback to the right) to clip the 7th bolt. Work your feet up very high, tense your body, and reach for the perfect glued flake in the high roof. Keep the pump together over the final roof and you are at the anchors.
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