All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.1 from 48 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|Page Views:||2,592 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Jeremy Steck on Nov 22, 2009|
|Admins:||Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson|
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion. Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang. Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts. The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from. This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section. 60M rope required.