All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress

The Prow

Name: The Prow
Rating: 3.1

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in 4. Third Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Boffedes V6 7A
	Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moselstraße S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pondel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wanderer, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Mark Stevenson
Page Views:	2,592 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Steck on Nov 22, 2009
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

**NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.

THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***

Description

Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion. Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang. Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts. The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from. This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section. 60M rope required.