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Routes in Third Buttress

Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Sexgiving S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joli goes to zermont S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moselstraße S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pondel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermoon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 1,293 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 22, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion. Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang. Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts. The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from. This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section. 60M rope required.

Location

The route begins on the white face about 15 feet to the left of Skull In Hole, 5.12a.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
Good to know, my 60m sterling 9.2 did reach, so it all depends on your rope brand and length. Sounds like a 70m would be best for this climb. Thanks! Oct 24, 2015
johs  
My 60m rope didn't quite reach the deck on lower. Maybe 10' short. Oct 24, 2015