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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
Dean's Route
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 12
votes
Routes in 4. Third Buttress
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Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baron Von Sauerkraut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Beer Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Boffedes V6 7A |
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Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gary's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Flying T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kurt Albert Gedächtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Meatball (aka. Mr. Ugly aka. Coloring Book) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moselstraße 7 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Dean Noonan 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,455 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | AndyJohnson on May 31, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Start on the first bolt of Beer Pressure (a long sling is helpful). Once in the hueco above, walk carefully to the left side of the hueco (and do not fall here) to clip the second bolt. Continue left past 2 more bolts to a rest stance in a corner before the crux. The 4th bolt has a quicklink on it to keep the gate of your carabiner off the edge of the little roof.
Figure out the crux sequence and climb up to another stance at the fifth bolt. A couple more tricky, but fun sequences separated by rests lead to a redpoint lunge to a good hold up high.
Similar in character to Beer Pressure, with one slightly harder sequence. My understanding is that the guidebook has Beer Pressure and Dean's Route reversed (BP is on climber's right, and DR on the left), and incorrectly shows a traverse from the right hand route to the left hand route at the seventh bolt (these routes only share the first bolt).
Figure out the crux sequence and climb up to another stance at the fifth bolt. A couple more tricky, but fun sequences separated by rests lead to a redpoint lunge to a good hold up high.
Similar in character to Beer Pressure, with one slightly harder sequence. My understanding is that the guidebook has Beer Pressure and Dean's Route reversed (BP is on climber's right, and DR on the left), and incorrectly shows a traverse from the right hand route to the left hand route at the seventh bolt (these routes only share the first bolt).
Photos
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