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The Prow

5.12b, Sport, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 35 votes
FA: Mark Stevenson
W Virginia > New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion. Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang. Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts. The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from. This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section. 60M rope required.

Location

The route begins on the white face about 15 feet to the left of Skull In Hole, 5.12a.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

5.8 Goat climbing after the first bouldery face.
[Hide Photo] 5.8 Goat climbing after the first bouldery face.
REACH!
[Hide Photo] REACH!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] My 60m rope didn't quite reach the deck on lower. Maybe 10' short. Oct 24, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
[Hide Comment] Good to know, my 60m sterling 9.2 did reach, so it all depends on your rope brand and length. Sounds like a 70m would be best for this climb. Thanks! Oct 24, 2015