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Routes in Third Buttress

Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Sexgiving S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joli goes to zermont S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moselstra├če S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pondel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermoon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 132 total, 4/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Jun 7, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Mostly shelf scrambling, this route offers very little "real" climbing. Start with a difficult move through a flaring jam and roof, and barely tolerate about 60 feet of easy 4th and 5th class climbing through ledge after ledge. Finally, you will be rewarded with about 25 feet of bolted handcrack. Why this was led by yours truly, or even equipped for that matter, is beyond me.

And alternative finish branches left from the end of the first crack system. It allegedly goes at 11+.

Location

Starts 20 feet right of super moon. Look for a bolt just above a roof and short flaring crack, about 10 feet off the deck.

Protection

Bolts and rap rings. All are in excellent condition.

Photos

- No Photos -
AndyJohnson
Alexandria, VA
  5.10+
AndyJohnson   Alexandria, VA
  5.10+
After a brief crux roof, this route offers some decent and fun climbing. It is a little easy in the middle and has plenty of rest stances, but the upper half has some very fun moves.

The variation out left feels much harder than 11+. As crimps go from good to bad, the feet do as well, and the ultimate move to a flat / sloping bulge feels very insecure. Perhaps you could dyno past it to a perfect jug. Either way, I think this crux is easily in the 5.12 range for average-height climbers. Sep 8, 2015