Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 551 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start out with a few thin moves. Continue up with increasingly more positive holds as the route begins to get steeper. As you approach the large roof above, head right to reach it. Reach up high and traverse back left on great holds to reach the shuts. The crux is likely clipping the shuts! Amazing roof moves!

Location

This is the first route you will come to as the approach trail from the river meets the cliff.

Protection

8 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Brad Leneis
  5.11c
Brad Leneis  
  5.11c
Leaving aside the opening moves, this is one of the juggiest jug-hauls around. If you find yourself in a crazy position while clipping the anchors, you're doing it right. Mar 6, 2018
Kyle Price
Youngstown, OH
  5.12a
Kyle Price   Youngstown, OH
  5.12a
The last permadraw is loose. I didn't have a tool with me or would have fixed it. I do not think it is safe. Also I think this climb is harder than Starry 12a. The crux on this is the roof and it's got some wild moves. This was the last climb of the day with a shoulder than had popped out of place on the prow but nonetheless its a fun climb. Get ready for a pump. Aug 28, 2018