Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 853 total · 9/month
Shared By: Felix Duvallet on Jun 2, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


84 Opinions

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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Excellent climbing! After clipping the second bolt traverse right to make a big move over a bulge, then move back left. Get a good rest and get ready to savor the overhanging face above.

Location

There are two big scooped huecos that are fairly obvious at ground level, this climb begins inside the right one.

Protection

8 bolts, bolt anchor

Photos

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Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
  5.11a R
Cody Goldberg   Lakewood, Colorado
  5.11a R
My favorite of the climbs I tried during my visit. Not a great climb to try and break into 5.11 territory. Traverse out right is v0 bouldering with broken bone (20 ft grounder) consequences. Direct variation involves solid v6 3-move sequence from half-pad crimp to nasty sloper bump. Going for bolt 6 also offers a nice whip to a ledge below if you don't fall well. Sick climb. May 31, 2016
Tim Salizzoni
Charlotte, NC
  5.10+
Tim Salizzoni   Charlotte, NC
  5.10+
Don't be scared off by the above poster. While I agree you don't want to blow the end of the traverse, the feet and hands are both great for all the moves. The fall at bolt 6 is fine too. This climb is a great intro to the grade with good holds, good movement, and ample rests. This is a pretty popular first 11 as well. Do this climb. Sep 6, 2016
Eugenel Espiritu
PA
  5.11a R
Eugenel Espiritu   PA
  5.11a R
Either poor bolting or this was intended to be 12+; traverse is dumb and dangerous. Dyno is pretty difficult in high 12 range. If done direct, easily harder than Meat Head and Starry. Oct 7, 2018
I feel that traverse right should be safe as long as a person who climbs it is solid at 5.9. If I remember correctly we pre-clipped bolt above the traverse for less confident people in our group, which made it safe, but you should double check that.

Also, direct variation is great fun if you want to do some v5-v6 moves on a rope (I just clipped first 2 bolts, climbed it, then downclimbed and unclipped) Oct 10, 2018